48 SKIN CARE D0, before treatment
D14, after treatment with 1% active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus
Figure 5: Smoothing effect of the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus in Caucasian volunteers
lipid matrix structure and the barrier function. Indeed, after 21 days of twice-daily application, the emulsion combining the retinol and the active ingredient limits alteration of the conformation and organization of lipids induced by retinol alone by 3.4% and 3%, respectively. TEWL is also significantly reduced by 13.2%. In addition, this same emulsion significantly limits the appearance of skin redness induced by retinol alone by 3.6% (measurement of parameter a*) (figure 6). A subjective evaluation confirms that the
presence of the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus in the emulsion containing the retinol improves perceived sensations: volunteers consider their skin to be less uncomfortable, and they notice less redness than when retinol is used alone. In addition to its action on the adverse effects
of retinol, the active ingredient also supports the latter’s cosmetic benefits. Indeed, the anti- wrinkle action of retinol is not altered by adding the active ingredient, and its radiance-boosting effect is amplified when the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus is combined in the formula. The active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus
therefore acts as a natural partner to retinol, protecting the skin against its adverse effects and supporting its cosmetic benefits.
0.15% retinol D0, before treatment D21, after treatment
Conclusion Combining mass spectrometry-based lipidomics and Raman microspectroscopy, Silab highlights for the first time the lipid signature of dry skin. The natural active ingredient Neolipyl® (INCI : Centaurea cyanus flower extract) is able to target disorders of dry skin. At the molecular level, it re-equilibrates the
lipid matrix by restoring the synthesis of epidermal lipids and optimizing its structure. At the level of the skin, the barrier function is restored, providing hydrating and smoothing effects. The efficacy of this lipid restructuring agent was also demonstrated on Asian skin. This study paves the way to the development
of innovative cosmetic solutions dedicated to the care of dry skin. Its efficacy and kinetics of action were compared to those of niacinamide, revealing a niacinamide-like action of this Centaurea cyanus flower extract. The restructuring benefits of this active ingredient
were also shown in combination with retinol. In spite of its anti-ageing benefits, this reference molecule can also cause adverse effects such as drying of the skin. When formulated with retinol, Neolipyl limits its adverse effects, without altering its anti-wrinkle action. As a natural partner of retinol, it also improves its radiance-boosting effect.
Derived from cornflower (Centaurea cyanus),
Neolipyl is therefore a natural repairing active ingredient. Acting as a genuine lipid restructuring agent and natural partner of retinol. it is a preferred ally in combatting skin dryness.
References 1. Augustin M, Kirsten N, Körber A, Wilsmann- Theis D, Itschert G, Staubach-Renz P, Maul JT, Zander N. Prevalence, predictors and comorbidity of dry skin in the general population. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2019 Jan;33(1):147-150
2. Fluhr JW, Moore DJ, Lane ME, Lachmann N, Rawlings AV. Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2024 May;38(5):812-820
3. Van Smeden J, Janssens M, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA. The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014 Mar;1841(3):295-313
4. Bouwstra JA, Nădăban A, Bras W, McCabe C, Bunge A, Gooris GS. The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization. Prog Lipid Res. 2023 Nov;92:101252
0.15% retinol + 2% active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus D0, before treatment
PCM
D21, after treatment
Skin redness ++
Skin redness +++
Skin redness ++ Figure 6: Visualization of the effect of the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus combined with retinol on skin redness PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE March 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Skin redness +
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