SKIN CARE 47
of 14 days of application. Indeed, in comparison to the placebo formula, TEWL is significantly reduced by 19.3% on the body in Caucasian volunteers and by 6.3% on the face in Asian volunteers. The hydration rate, determined by
corneometry, is also significantly increased in Caucasian and Asian volunteers by 13.4% and 7%, respectively and compared to the placebo. In addition, a clinical scoring conducted by a
dermatologist in the Asian panel has highlighted an improvement of the appearance of the skin. This translates into a significant decrease in skin dryness by 9.8% and in skin roughness by 10%. In Caucasian volunteers, the active ingredient
from Centaurea cyanus smooths skin microrelief by significantly reducing the anisotropy index by 26.3% compared to the placebo (Figure 5). A subjective evaluation in comparison to
the placebo confirms these results. Indeed, 94% of Caucasian and Asian volunteers consider their skin to be hydrated and more comfortable after 14 days of twice daily application of the active ingredient. In addition, 94% of Caucasian volunteers find their skin better nourished and 100% of Asian volunteers perceive it smoother. The niacinamide-like efficacy of the active
ingredient was also demonstrated for all previous-mentioned parameters in Caucasian volunteers.
Natural partner of retinol The restructuring benefits of the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus were also shown in combination with retinol on normal Caucasian skin. In spite of its anti-ageing benefits, this reference molecule can also cause adverse effects such as drying of the skin. Formulated at 2% in a facial care product
containing 0.15% retinol, the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus limits its adverse effects of this molecule, especially by preserving the
Normal skin ■ Dry skin ■ Analysis of epidermal lipids (AU) *
1.70 1.65 1.60 1.55 1.50 1.45 1.40
1.66 -5% ** 1.58 1.56 -3% 1.51
Conformation of lipids (vCC trans/vCC gauche ratio)
Organization of lipids (vasym CH2/vsym CH2 ratio)
Figure 3: Raman microspectroscopy analysis of the conformation and organization of lipids between the normal skin and dry skin groups. Result(s)/normal skin: **: P < 0.01 --- *: P < 0.05
Variation of the conformation of lipids/D0 (%) ns
6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
* +3.9% ** +3.9## +3.9% +3.9## 0.0ns Placebo 1% active
ingredient from Centaurea Cyanus
5% niacinamide
8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Variation of the organization of lipids/D0 (%) *
** * +3.2ns +1.9% +5.1# +3.4% +6.5#
Placebo
1% active
ingredient from Centaurea Cyanus
5% niacinamide
Result(s)/D0: ##: p<0.01 ---#: p<0.05 ---ns: non-significant Results(s)placebo: **: p<0.01 ---*: p<0.05
Result(s)niacinamide: *: p<0.05 ---ns: non-significant
Figure 4: Effect of the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus on the conformation and organization of epidermal lipids, in comparison to the placebo formula and to niacinamide formulated at 5%.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
