FORMULATING
Hydrophilic emulsifier for hybrid O/W foundations
Fenbao (David) Zhang PhD, Brandon Lines, Rick Vrckovnik – Siltech ABSTRACT
Silsurf I108 (INCI Name: PEG-8 Dimethicone) has a very high degree of polyether chains on the dimethicone backbone. It acts as a strong O/W emulsifier and dispersant. Especially it can make a hybrid face foundation at room temperature, in which hydrophobic pigments can be pre-dispersed/blended in either water phase or oil phase. Microscopic study showed that the pigments were easily dispersed well in either internal phase (oil phase) or external phase (water phase) respectively, the hybrid foundation has benefits both from water based and oil-based foundations such as low cost, easy process, water-proof, long wearing, very light feel, high moisturization and superior lubricity
There are two basic emulsion systems for facial foundation: one is oil-in-water (O/W, water base), the other is water-in-oil (W/O, oil base). Water-based foundations are oil or/and silicone in water emulsion that contains a small amount of oil or/and silicone, in which the pigments - usually hydrophilic treated pigments - are blended in water base. Oil-based foundations are water in oil or/
and silicone emulsions that contain hydrophobic pigments suspended in oil or/and silicone, such as synthetic oils or natural oils, or/and silicone fluids. For application, both systems have their own
Pure carbon black
benefits for different type of skin, for instance, oil-based products are often best for dry skin while water base products can be adapted for all kinds of skin types. Most foundations in today’s foundation/makeup market are W/O systems, because they have many benefits such as easy spread, longer wear, film barrier and waterproof and so on, compared to O/W systems, which are favoured their high-water content (lower cost), their light moisture feel, and good stability. Yet both systems have their own shortages, for
example W/O foundations are often not stable, high cost, and feel greasy; for O/W foundations,
8% carbon black in Silsurf 1108
8% carbon black in Silsurf 1108 dispersed in Water
they are light coverage, not waterproof, and short wear etc. Both foundation systems have to be processed at elevated temperature traditionally. Siltech recently developed Silsurf I108,
hereafter described as the hydrophilic emulsifier, which can disperse hydrophobic pigments either in water phase or oil phase to make a regular emulsion that combines the benefits of both oil base and water base foundation such as long- wearing, water-proof, high coverage, and low cost, easy spread and so on. Most importantly, it is cold process which
brings a lot of benefits such as energy/cost/time saving, easier process, increase of production capacity, sustainable/environment friendly.
Pigment dispersion and microscopic study Dispersions of 8% carbon black, TiO2
, ZnO, FD&C 1000X 2500X
Red 7, and Red 28 were directly made into the hydrophilic emulsifier. All the mixtures were blended well by using BamixBlender. The carbon black mixture was then dispersed in tap water in ratio of 1:2 and examined under a microscope. OMAX Trinocular Compound LED Microscope M837ZLSeries was used to take digital pictures of the pigment particles under microscope. The images were taken at 1000X and 2500
Figure 1: Microscopic Images of pure carbon black and 8% carbon black in the hydrophilic emulsifier
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X magnifications (in total) at multiple spots on each microscopy glass slide. Pictures were processed by using Adobe Photoshop 7.0. Full scale of the image is 275 µm and 110 µm for
March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
87
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