FORMULATING 89


TABLE 1: FORMULATION OF HYBRID O/W FOUNDATION


Part A


Ingredients D.I Water


Cosmedia SP (BASF) Luviskol K30 (BASF) Glycerin


Silsurf I108 B


Hydrophobic White Hydrophobic Yellow Hydrophobic Red Hydrophobic Black


C


Bentone 38V (Elementis) Dry-Flo Elite (AkzoNobel) SXI-5 (Miyoshi) Dermol 99 (Alzo) Silwax A08 (Siltech)


Silwax CR-5016 (Siltech) Pelemol EE (Phoenix) Siltech CE-2000 (Siltech) Symocide PS (Symrise)


FM110B 49.07 0.55 0.50 5.00 5.00 12.70 3.10 0.95 0.10 1.00 1.80 1.05


3.00 2.00 5.00 2.30 7.50 1.80


emulsifier for making hybrid O/W foundations. It is easy for the hydrophilic emulsifier to make a hybrid make-ups/foundation which uses hydrophobic pigments to make O/W type emulsion. This kind of emulsion system has both benefits of W/O and O/W foundations. the hydrophilic emulsifier renders excellent pigment dispersion, soft feel, fast absorption, moisturizing smooth, light skin feel.


Microscopic study of hybrid O/W foundation The same OMAX Microscope as above was used to take digital pictures of the pigment particles under microscope. The images were taken at


Triethoxycaprylylsilane Treated Pigments in Water Phase


Triethoxycaprylylsilane Treated Pigments in Oil Phase


1000X


2500X


Figure 5: Microscopic images of hybrid foundation with triethoxycaprylylsilane treated pigments in water phase (above) and oil phase respectively (bottom)


1000X and 2500 X (in total) magnifications at multiple spots on each microscopy glass slide. Images were processed by using Adobe


Photoshop 7.0. Full scale of the image is 275 µm and 110 μm for 1000X and 2500X magnification respectively. Three different material treated hydrophobic


pigments were tested either blended in oilphase or water phase, the pigments in final O/W emulsion can be well dispersed. They are Sensient Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated pigments, Miyoshi ACT treated pigments and Sensient Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone treated pigments. Figure 5 shows that the average size of


the particles of Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated


TABLE 2: SPECIFICATIONS OF ONE TYPICAL HYBRID O/W FOUNDATION


Specifications


Viscosity (cps)* pH


Appearance Stability @RT/45°C


Feel (1-10, 10 the best) Compatibility


FM110A 18,000 6.90


Ivory Makeup Good/good 9.30


Good *Brookfield Viscometer LVF Spindle #4, 12 rpm, at 25°C


pigments dispersed in oil phase is much smaller than that in water phase, and the size distribution is narrow.


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March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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