ANTI-AGEING 71


Giving skin a biochemical shield against oxy-ageing


Lisa Lien, Wendy Chen – Corum


Every day, the skin defends against external aggressors such as sunlight, pollution, and cigarette smoke, as well as internal stressors like psychological tension. Beneath this protective barrier, however, lies a constant biochemical battle. Free radicals, unstable molecules with


unpaired electrons, are generated both naturally through mitochondrial respiration and externally through environmental exposure.1 When these reactive species exceed the


skin’s antioxidant defences, they cause damage to proteins, lipids, and other cellular structures, leading to oxidative stress. This imbalance accelerates the deterioration of cell membranes, promotes cellular senescence, and weakens the skin’s barrier function.2,3


From oxidative stress to oxy-ageing: the path to skin ageing Mitochondria play a central role in this process. As we age or face external stress, the electron transport chain becomes less efficient, resulting in an overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) like superoxide radicals, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), and hydroxyl radicals (⋅OH) that further disrupt energy metabolism.4 These ROS damage cellular structures and


activate transcription factors like NF-κB and AP-1, which trigger the release of inflammatory cytokines and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs break down collagen and elastin, the proteins responsible for skin’s strength and elasticity.5 The accumulation of this oxidative damage


leads to visible signs of ageing collectively known as ‘oxy-ageing’. Oxy-ageing is a silent yet relentless process that gradually undermines skin vitality, manifesting as wrinkles, sagging, uneven pigmentation, lack of radiance, and loss of elasticity. On a deeper level, mitochondrial dysfunction,


a key factor in oxidative damage, reduces cellular energy, slowing down the skin’s ability to renew and repair itself. This self-perpetuating cycle of oxidative stress results in a vicious feedback loop, where the skin’s deterioration continues unchecked, accelerating the ageing process.


The role of antioxidants in combating oxy-ageing Antioxidants play a vital role in combating oxidative stress, neutralizing harmful free radicals,


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and reducing the cellular damage they cause. Well-known antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, glutathione, and polyphenols have long been celebrated for their ability to protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote a more youthful appearance. However, as our understanding of oxidative


stress deepens, we have realized that relying on a single antioxidant may not be enough. The need for more advanced solutions has led to the development of innovative antioxidants that go beyond the traditional benefits. There is an increasing need for more advanced and sustained antioxidant solutions that can provide longer-lasting protection.


Vitamin C – the classic ROS defender In the world of antioxidants, vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) is perhaps the most well-known and widely used antioxidant in skin care, valued for its ability to neutralize free radicals by donating its high-energy electrons,6


collagen synthesis. Vitamin C is a cofactor for enzymes involved


in collagen synthesis, making it essential not only for antioxidant protection but also for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity.7 However, despite its proven benefits, vitamin C is highly unstable in formulations and


faces challenges in skin absorption, limiting its effectiveness in providing long-term protection against oxidative stress. This instability is particularly problematic when exposed to light, air, and heat.


Vitamin E, glutathione, and polyphenols: powerful allies While vitamin E, glutathione, and polyphenols are well-established in the world of antioxidants, each with unique mechanisms for combating oxidative stress, they still face challenges related to absorption and formulation stability. These antioxidants can help protect skin cells


from free radical damage and inflammation, but their effects are often limited by their delivery capabilities.


and its role in


Next-generation defence against oxy-ageing As discussed earlier, oxy-ageing is a continuous, invisible process driven by oxidative stress beneath the skin’s surface, occurring both day and night. This underlying oxidative stress not only contributes to visible signs of ageing and a lacklustre complexion but also reflects a persistent biochemical imbalance that compromises skin clarity, resilience, and overall health. Increasing scientific evidence points to a strong correlation between oxidative stress and


March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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