SKIN CARE 51
Advancement of sunscreen using sodium surfactin
Xiping Luo, Wenxuan Zhao, Xin Sun, Ruiyan Wang – Bloomage Biotechnology Yinglun Fan - Institute of Biomedical Engineering, University of Toronto
ABSTRACT
Micron-sized physical ultraviolet filters, including titanium dioxide (TiO2
) and zinc
Sunscreen agents are broadly classified as chemical absorbers or physical blockers based on their protection mechanisms. Although chemical filters provide desirable texture and spreadability, concerns over photosensitivity, skin penetration, and ecological toxicity have prompted regulatory limitations in several regions.1,2 In comparison, micron-sized titanium dioxide ) and zinc oxide (ZnO) remain widely used
(TiO2
due to their broad-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) protection, photostability, and documented safety.3
However, these inorganic materials are
prone to aggregation, sedimentation, whitening, and poor skin feel, which collectively limit consumer acceptance and commercial potential.4,5 To address those drawbacks, one of the
approaches is to develop nanoscale versions of these physical UV filters. While nanoscale particles reduce whitening and improve transparency and spreadability,6
they raise safety concerns. Animal studies suggest possible skin
TABLE 1: FORMULATION OF ZNO AQUEOUS SUSPENSIONS
Formula 1 (F1) Formula 2 (F2) Formula 3 (F3) Formula 4 (F4) Formula 5 (F5) Formula 6 (F6) Formula 7 (F7)
10% ZnO
10% ZnO+0.1% SF 10% ZnO+0.2% SF 10% ZnO+0.3% SF 10% ZnO+0.4% SF 10% ZnO+0.5% SF 10% ZnO+1% SF
www.personalcaremagazine.com penetration into the dermis,7 and their high
specific surface area may increase photocatalytic activity under UV light, potentially leading to free radical formation and oxidative stress, and an elevated risk of cellular DNA damage.8–10
oxide (ZnO), are widely utilized in sunscreen formulations due to their broad-spectrum protection and favourable safety profile. However, their performance is often compromised by inherent limitations such as particle aggregation, rapid sedimentation, pronounced white cast, and unsatisfactory skin-feel, which collectively impair both efficacy and user acceptance. This study introduces sodium surfactin as an eco- friendly biosurfactant to enhance the UV protection efficiency of micron-sized physical sunscreens. Results indicate that surfactin significantly enhances the stability of ZnO suspensions, with the addition of 1% surfactin completely inhibiting visible sedimentation of 10% ZnO for over 24 hours. Particle size analysis revealed that surfactin reduced the average particle size of TiO2
and Therefore,
improving the dispersion and sensory properties of micron-scale sunscreens without compromising safety remains a critical research challenge. Biosurfactants represent an alternative and
promising approach for enhancing sunscreen formulations, combining eco-friendly attributes with multifunctional performance. Sodium surfactin, a lipopeptide-type biosurfactant, exhibits strong interfacial activity and colloidal stabilization, making it effective in emulsification and dispersion systems.11 Although surfactin has been explored in
pharmaceuticals and some cosmetic applications, its potential in micron-scale sunscreen systems, particularly regarding stabilization, UV protection enhancement and sensory benefits, has not been thoroughly studied. The present work elucidates the multifaceted
benefits of surfactin in micronized ZnO- and TiO2
-based sunscreens. Through systematic
evaluation of suspension stability, particle size, SPF enhancement, and sensory performance— including spreadability, lightness, non-stickiness, and reduced whitening—this study establishes a robust scientific and technical framework for next- generation, eco-friendly, high-efficacy physical sunscreen formulations.
ZnO in aqueous suspensions by 90% and 99%, respectively. Surfactin-incorporated sunscreen formulations showed a SPF increases of 12% for TiO2
-based and 25% for
ZnO-based products. Furthermore,sensory assessments confirmed that surfactin- containing sunscreens provided superior skin- feel characterized by lighter texture, enhanced spreadability, reduced stickiness, and minimal white cast. Overall, this study addresses key formulation challenges associated with micron-sized physical sunscreens and establishes a scientific foundation for the development of high-performance, user- friendly, and stable sunscreen products
Materials and methods Materials The materials (and the suppliers of the materials) used in the formulations were as follows. Caprylyl Glycol (Inolex); Disteardimonium Hectorite (Haimingsi (Shanghai) New Materials); PEG-10 Dimethicone (Shin-Etsu); Caprylyl Methicone (Momentive); Butyloctyl Salicylate (Hallstar Beauty); Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate (Miwon); Ethylhexylglycerin (Ashland); Dimethicone (Dow); Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Shin- Etsu); C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (BASF); Glycerin
March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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