EMULSIONS
TABLE 1: INGREDIENTS USED IN THE FORMULATION. THE OIL PHASE VARIES ACCORDING TO TABLE 2
Phase Ingredients A Deionized water INCI Aqua
Zemea propanediol Propanediol Solagum AX
Fluidfeel easy Cithrol GMIS 40 Euxyl K712
Oil phase
Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum
Lauryl Glucoside (and) Myristyl Glu- coside (and) Polyglyceryl-6-laurate
Glyceryl Isostearate
Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) aqua
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and/or) Butyrospermum Parkii oil
droplet size and viscosity. In this study, viscosity measurements, X-ray diffraction, and droplet size analysis, are employed to comprehensively assess the crystallization processes.
Materials The butters under investigation were sourced from shea butter and manufactured at AAK’s facility in Karlshamn, Sweden. Specifically, Lipex® 102 is a standard refined shea butter, while Lipex SheaLiquid™ TR is a shea olein.
Methods Chemical analyses/triglyceride analysis The triglyceride compositions were analysed using the standard AOCS Ce 5-86 (AOCS, ce-5b 89 “Triglycerides in Vegetable Oils by HPLC”).
Sample preparation and storage The products were used as the sole oil phase in oil-in-water emulsions, following the recipe in Table 1. Four formulations were prepared by blending Lipex SheaLiquid TR and Lipex 102 as per Table 2. All ingredients were heated to 75°C and
emulsions were prepared in 1kg batches, homogenized for 5 minutes at 75°C, then slowly stirred while cooling to 40°C and poured
Formulation A at 20°C
Triglycerides POS SOS SOA SOO
SLS+SLO PLS
OOO OOL
Other
w/w (%) 76.2 4
0.8 3
0.5 1.5
14
65
TABLE 2: OIL PHASE USED IN FORMULATION. THE FORMULATIONS VARIED IN TYPE OF OIL
Lipex 102 Formulation % in formulation
A B C D
C52:1 C54:1 C56:1 C54:2
C54:2+ C54:3* C52:2 C54:3 C54:4
0 3.5
10.5 14
Lipex
SheaLiquid TR % in formulation
14
10.5 3.5 0
Lipex SheaLiquid TR 2.3 7.2
0.4
50.3 13.3 4.9 8.3 3.5 9.8
Lipex 102/
Lipex SheaLiquid TR Ratio
0:100 25:75 75:25 100:0
Lipex 102 5.5
36.8 2.4
28.1 10.2 2.6 4.6 1.9 7.9
Table 3: The triglyceride composition of the ingoing oils. *)SLO constitutes around 7–8% in shea olein (Dantine, 2015) and around 4% in shea butter. POS = Palmitic-oleic-stearic, SOS = Stearic-oleic- stearic, SOA = Stearic-oleic-Arachidic, SOO = Stearic-oleic-oleic, SLS = Stearic-linoleic-stearic, PLS = Palmitic-linoleic-stearic, SLO = Stearic-linoleic-oleic, OOO = Triolein, OOL = Oleic-oleic-linoleic
into jars. Samples were analysed at 25°C, then stored at 20°C and 25°C. Analyses were conducted on day 1, and after one week, one month, and three months.
Viscosity measurements The viscosity was measured using an Anton Paar MCR 301 rheometer equipped with a
■ Month 3 ■ Month 1 ■ Week 1 ■ Day 1 ■ Day 0 Formulation B at 20°C
CC27 (bob and cup). The viscosity was attained based on using a flow curve with shear rates between 0.1-2000 s-1. Depending on storage conditions, the viscosity was measured at 20 or 25°C.
X-ray diffraction The polymorphic forms of the formulations were analysed using a high resolution Xenocs Xeuss 3.0 (France) equipped with Metal Jet microfocus X-source (Cu, 1.2 kW) and Pilatus detector. A capillary holder with Peltier temperature control set at either 20 or 25 °C ensured the correct temperature.
Droplet size A Mastersizer 2000, Hydro 2000 SM (A) was used to analyze the droplet size of the emulsion.
100.00 10.00 Formulation A at 25°C 1.00 100.00 10.00 Formulation B at 25°C 1.00 pH
The pH of the emulsions was analyzed with an electronic pH-meter.
100.00 10.00 1.00 100.00 10.00 1.00
Figure 1: XRD for formulations A and B. Merged SAX/WAX diagrams where the x-axis represents the d-spacing in Ångstom for formulations A and B at 20 and 25°C. Day 0 in the bottom and 3 months storage at 20°C at the top
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Results and discussion Chemical analyses Lipex 102 (refined shea butter) contains 44.7% monounsaturated triglycerides (mainly SOS), while Lipex SheaLiquid TR (shea olein) has 9.7%. The refined shea butter has 28.1% SOO, compared to 50.3% in shea olein. Tri-saturated triglycerides are 0.4% in shea olein and 1.5% in refined shea butter (Table 3). Thus, refined shea
November 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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