MENOPAUSAL SKIN CARE


Rebuilding skin elasticity during the menopause


José Melo Barcelos – Geltor


The sharp decline in estrogen during the menopausal transition accelerates degenerative changes in the ultrastructure of elastin fibres,1


reduces collagen levels,2


and lowers concentrations of hydrophilic glucosaminoglycans in the skin.3 These changes contribute to decreased skin elasticity—up to 1.5% per year in early postmenopause—along with increased dryness, thinning, and wrinkle formation.4 Given elastin’s extremely low natural turnover and the body’s limited ability to regenerate it, restoring elastic fibre integrity remains a critical, yet under-addressed, target in menopausal skin care. In this article, we describe in vitro and ex


vivo studies that demonstrate Elastapure®, a biodesigned recombinant elastin registered as sh-polypeptide-50, significantly stimulates the endogenous synthesis of key extracellular matrix components. Notably, it increased elastin production by


+397% in fibroblast cultures under menopausal conditions, along with boosts of +83% in hyaluronic acid and +132% in collagen type III. In a study using human skin explants, it increased dermal elastin by +59%, dermal hyaluronic acid by +62%, and epidermal hyaluronic acid by +289%. These results position sh-polypeptide-50


as a potent active ingredient to help restore elasticity, firmness, and hydration in ageing, estrogen-deficient skin.


The role of ECM and elastin The extracellular matrix (ECM) is a sophisticated network that surrounds the cells and creates the scaffold of the living tissues. Its composition defines the mechanical properties of the tissues while also functioning as a biochemical reservoir of cell-signaling molecules.5


Collagen, the main protein in the


ECM, confers structural support and tissue integrity.6 Elastin, another fibre-forming protein that


accounts for 2% to 4% of the dry content in the dermis,7


provides high extension, low stiffness,


and efficient elastic energy storage to the skin, allowing repetitive extensions and relaxation.8 Working together with stiffer collagen


fibres, these proteins are important in defining the mechanical properties of the skin. In addition, hydrophilic proteoglycans and glucosaminoglycans, like hyaluronic acid (HA), regulate hydration levels of the skin and


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interact with the proteins in the skin to support tissue architecture.9 As we age, the continued mechanical


stress and the action of extracellular proteases render the elastin network more susceptible to degradation. Although the ECM is constantly remodeled, elastin turnover is slow, with a half-life compared to the human lifespan.7 The expression of tropoelastin, the


soluble non-crosslinked precursor of elastic fibres, peaks during the neonatal stages and eventually ceases completely after birth in most tissues.10


Therefore, stimulation of


tropoelastin formation and repair of elastic fibres is a critical strategy to remediate the effects of skin ageing.


Changes to ECM structural proteins during menopause During the chronological ageing process, proteases, proinflammatory cytokines, and chemokines are secreted by fibroblasts in the skin and accelerate the degradation process of the extracellular matrix components,11


skin appearance are accelerated by endocrine changes during menopause, with the stop of ovarian estrogen synthesis and a sharp decline in estrogen content. Estrogen has the ability to protect skin cells against oxidative stress,12


increase


the expression of growth factors related to dermal fibroblast proliferation and ECM secretion, while downregulating the expression of proteases known to degrade ECM components.4


Its decline during menopause


transition accelerates changes to the morphology and properties of the skin. Degenerative changes to the ultrastructure


of the elastic fibres were found to be more advanced in menopausal people than what was predicted on the basis of chronological age.1 At the same time, collagen content


also decreases with menopause, and continues decreasing as a function of the postmenopausal years.2,4


resulting


in changes in skin properties and appearance. In individuals with ovaries, these changes in


Moreover,


estrogen deficiency is likely associated with the decrease in dermal proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans in postmenopausal skin.3 These effects on the composition and


November 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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