Volume 26 Issue 10
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CONTENTS
3
REGULARS 5
6 9
Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Elementis News
99 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Interview: Clearing the hurdles Seongmin (Mike) Sohn is the general manager
and principal consultant at global regulatory compliance consulting firm REACH24H Korea. Mike, who is based in Seoul, Korea, talks to editor Tim Probert about the latest cosmetic regulations, as well as K-beauty trends
21
Cannes limelight Editor Tim Probert rounds up the 35th IFSCC Congress in Cannes, France, with coverage of the latest cutting-edge cosmetic science presented by the likes of L’Oréal, Shiseido, BASF, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Givaudan, Cosmax and more
27 Can cosmetics be made totally
in the UK? Ahead of this month’s SCS Formulate show in Coventry, UK, trade association Cosmetics Cluster UK examines whether it is possible to manufacture, at commercial scale, a beauty product from raw materials sourced from domestic production
33 Measuring properties of human
hair surfaces Surface characterisation data of hair fibres can deliver important insights into the performance of hair care products. Lucideon reviews the range of relevant hair properties together with the use of topographical and chemical surface characterisation techniques for their determination
39 Skin inflammaging and
the role of Ectoin Bitop examines key inflammaging mechanisms and demonstrates how Ectoin reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine expression, inhibits oxidative stress, and protects cellular structures through its unique hydro-complex mechanism
IFSCC Congress: cosmetics steal 45 How senescence science is 70 Effects of anti-acne products
redefining skin longevity Clinical evidence show that senolytic compounds can double the efficacy of established actives— such as collagen-boosting peptides—by amplifying their impact on the main visible signs of ageing. By removing the biological roadblocks that limit conventional actives’ effectiveness, senolytic- enhanced formulations represent the future of evidence-based skin care, as DSM-Firmenich explains
52 Beyond lifespan: exploring the
science of longevity Longevity science is reshaping our understanding of skin ageing and the biological hallmarks that drive functional and visible decline. For more than two decades, Ashland has explored these pathways, from genomic instability to cellular senescence, developing a range of cosmetic active ingredients with targeted actions and robust scientific validation
59 Rebuilding skin elasticity during
the menopause Geltor describes in vitro and ex vivo studies that demonstrate how a biodesigned recombinant elastin registered as sh-polypeptide-50, significantly stimulates the endogenous synthesis of key extracellular matrix components
64 Crystallizing materials in formulation
stability An AAK study shows how emulsions formulated with shea olein or lower concentrations of refined shea butter remained monodisperse, with stable viscosity and no signs of crystallization
on microbiota Labskin presents a real-life case study exploring the effects of two anti-acne products on a skin microbiome transplanted onto a 3D full-thickness human skin equivalent that consists of a metabolically active epidermis
75 Novel 3D model to study feminine
care ingredients Straticell describes the in-house reconstruction of a vaginal organoid tissue model and demonstrates its use to evaluate topical ingredients commonly found in feminine care formulations
81 The skin microbiome and
mature skin Byome Labs examines mature skin and the bidirectional relationship between skin ageing and the microbiome, with implications for microbiome compatible care
87 Bridging the in vivo and
in vitro testing gap As mineral sunscreens become more widely adopted, ensuring accurate SPF testing methodologies becomes increasingly urgent. Refining in vitro SPF testing will allow for a more accurate and fair assessment of ZnO-based sunscreen efficacy, as Solabia explains
93 Boosting longevity with
hemp-derived extract Inabata France et al investigate the potential of a cannabisin-rich extract, derived from bioreactor-grown Cannabis sativa hairy roots (CSHR), to activate key biological pathways linked to skin cell longevity
16 64 81
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November 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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