24 IFSCC 35TH CONGRESS REVIEW
skin tone across all tested skin types. Validated across clinical, in vitro and ex
vivo studies, Tonasulike-D delivers visible and measurable results, even at an extremely low concentration of 0.01%. Unlike tyrosinase inhibitors, some of which
are banned or restricted, Tonasulike-D uses a dual, synergistic mechanism of action that delivers proven clinical results. It works upstream to reduce melanin production and downstream to prevent melanin transfer, setting a new standard in efficacy, safety, and formulation performance. Tonasulike-D was discovered using Kokuma’s
AI platform, applying pharmaceutical-style in silico predictive tools to identify high-potential, previously untapped biological targets.
Ozone emerging as major skin stressor L’Oréal-owned heritage beauty brand Helena Rubinstein held a three-day so-called satellite symposium, held in parallel with the conference tracks. In one of the key sessions, Helena Rubinstein’s international scientific director Audrey Gueniche described how ozone is emerging as a major stressor and pollutant causing detrimental skin conditions. Tropospheric O3
A preliminary in vitro study was carried out
on a complete reconstructed skin model with the evaluation of 8-isoprostane. Then an ex vivo study mimicking extreme environmental conditions (UVA + blue light + PM 2.5 + heavy metals + O3
exposure) was set up on skin
Audrey Gueniche, Helena Rubinstein
protective stratospheric O3 , is the only pollutant
increasing in most industrialized countries in recent decades and is a key factor in skin damage. Helena Rubinstein evaluated whether UV, , act
blue light, PM, heavy metals and/or O3 , not to be confused with the
in inducing skin damage, and whether this effect could be prevented through a Crithmum maritimum (commonly known as samphire or sea fennel) native cells extract or a topical application of a specific skin care serum containing it.
explants. In addition, a six-months clinical study including clinical scorings was conducted on two groups of 42 & 43 volunteers (serum versus neutral cream) in harsh urban pollution including ozone pics during hot conditions in Shijiazhuang, China. The in vitro test demonstrated a protective
antioxidant efficacy of the extract after systemic application (-18%) against O3
(0.4ppm) on the skin. effect of O3
The ex vivo test highlighted the additive to photo-pollution in increasing
levels of oxi-inflammatory markers and demonstrated a biological preventive efficacy of the skin care serum apply topically (-37% 4-hydroxynonenal, -49% IL1-alpha). The clinical study proved after six months that the serum decreased significantly skin imperfections (-71.61%) and ageing signs (-19.59% forehead wrinkles, +24.80% elasticity and +20.47% radiance) compared to the neutral cream.
EMERGING TRENDS IN COSMETIC TESTING AND EVALUATION
The 35th IFSCC Congress showcased groundbreaking advancements and emerging trends in cosmetic testing and evaluation, writes Skinobs CEO and founder Anne Charpentier
Across 68 podium presentations and 377 posters devoted to testing, recurrent themes at the IFSCC 35th Congress included photoprotection, neuroscience, exposome- related research, microbiome investigations, and ‘well-ageing’ strategies. Longevity, sustainability, pigmentation,
and neurosensory approaches were also central. The predominance of studies on longevity and the microbiome reflects a transition from short-term anti-aging claims to holistic strategies that emphasize resilience, regeneration, and microbial balance. The dominant testing topics addressed
at the Congress primarily revolved around longevity and well-ageing. The traditional anti-ageing paradigm has been superseded by a comprehensive focus on skin regeneration, resilience, and repair. Ageing is now viewed as a multi-
factorial process, involving oxidative stress, environmental exposure, and microbiome interactions. Biomarkers and omics-based technologies, including genomics, proteomics, and metabolomics, are used to rigorously evaluate long-term skin health. Furthermore, personalization and
advanced diagnostics have emerged as transformative forces, with AI-driven diagnostics, 3D imaging, and microbiome profiling. Hyper-personalization is now attainable via neuroscience-informed predictions, and in silico modelling alongside artificial intelligence is establishing a new
PERSONAL CARE November 2025
paradigm for assessing efficacy, safety, and regulatory compliance across a broad spectrum of ingredient combinations. Additionally, the skin microbiome took centre
stage. Research highlights its role in acne, aging, and UV-induced damage. Prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics are being explored as targeted interventions. Their effects are evaluated with advanced methodologies, including refined skin sampling and multi-omics approaches.
Technological inspirations & low signals for both in vitro & in vivo analysis The 35th IFSCC Congress highlighted the diversification of methodologies beyond traditional in vivo testing. In vitro, ex vivo, microfluidic and organ-on-chip models are increasingly sophisticated, incorporating vascular, neuronal, and sebaceous components to better mimic physiological reality. In silico approaches, supported by AI,
are emerging for predictive toxicology, efficacy simulations, and cross-population extrapolations. Notably, new ISO standards for SPF evaluation, ISO 2375 (Double Plate Method, fully in vitro) and ISO 23698 (Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy), represent a paradigm shift, offering ethical, reproducible alternatives to erythema-based human testing. Advances in biomarkers and omics
(genomics, proteomics, metabolomics, transcriptomics) are transforming mechanistic understanding of skin physiology, enabling
precision testing. At-home diagnostic devices, smart mirrors, AI-driven probes, dermoscopes, offer scalable, real-time skin evaluations, with implications for both consumer empowerment and clinical validation. AI is not envisioned as replacing
human expertise but rather as augmenting intelligence, standardizing data treatment, and enabling hyper-personalized diagnostic and formulation strategies. Emerging ‘low signals’ included fascia
biology, skin translucency, nail health, and the impact of space exploration on skin physiology. These underrepresented domains may constitute future frontiers for testing. The integration of conversational
avatars in consumer testing, multi-pathway mechanistic models, and eco-sustainable photoprotection systems further indicate the field’s expanding horizons. In conclusion, the 35th IFSCC Congress
confirmed a profound transformation of cosmetic testing. A convergence of societal expectations, environmental imperatives, and technological innovations is fostering a new evaluation paradigm—ethical, inclusive, and scientifically robust. For scientists in cosmetic evaluation
and testing, the message is unequivocal: the future lies in integrating advanced models, omics-based biomarkers, AI-driven personalization, and environmentally responsible protocols.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PC
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107
