36 TESTING
Keratin
colour-coded lines. ■ 3D photographs and videos: Shows the sample in XYZ space with variable angle viewing, zoom, and variable lighting. ■ Film thickness (for sufficiently transparent layers): By focusing separately on a coating surface and then on the substrate surface and subtracting the data sets, a film thickness image can be generated and quantified. WLI has limited capability for highly curved surfaces but can be used for scale height determination on individual hair fibres using the line profile feature.
WLI is ideal for characterising the effects of
hair applications, such as conditioners, on the surface structure modifications achieved from their use. At Lucideon, we apply white light interferometry to characterise the finest surface features of hair to correlate this data with product performance metrics such as texture and reduced friction. This enables our clients to make evidence-based decisions when refining product formulations.
Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToFSIMS) In ToFSIMS the sample surface is bombarded with a pulsed beam of primary ions. Secondary ions are sputtered from the sample surface and then are mass analysed to provide detailed surface chemical information on elements, chemical groups, molecules, and polymer fragments. ToFSIMS is analytically highly sensitive (<ppm detection levels) and although it is not directly quantitative it can provide some semi-quantitative information. ToFSIMS analysis provides mass
spectra and chemical species spatial distribution images. The retrospective data processing capability of the instrument is particularly useful when a selected area of the sample is scanned in spectrum-per-point mode. In this mode a mass spectrum is acquired at each (μm scale) pixel point for the field of view and the resulting two-dimensional array of spectra is
PERSONAL CARE November 2025
Organo-Sulfate Figure 6: ToFSIMS image of shampoo treated/rinsed cross sectioned human hair
used to construct area specific species maps. The versatile chemical mapping of molecular
species available from the ToFSIMS technique has been applied to the study of residual substances on the surface of human hair. These include both natural (e.g. sebum) and synthetic (e.g. hair products) materials. Human hair has a diameter of around
60-70 μm. The sub-micron capability of the SIMS technique generates spectacular high-resolution images showing the spatial distribution of residues with ppm sensitivity, as can be seen in Figure 6 where brightness of colour indicates abundance. Product residues can be readily identified
and their spatial distribution followed using this technique. This is important in hair product development, not only from an efficacy standpoint but also in terms of ensuring potential adverse effects are addressed effectively. By understanding the precise distribution of natural oils and synthetic treatments across the hair surface, we enable manufacturers to optimise delivery systems,
improve product longevity, and substantiate marketing claims with robust analytical evidence.
Conclusion and future perspectives Surface chemical mapping and topographical profiling have become increasingly valuable tools in the development of hair care products, supporting areas such as formulation research, failure analysis, manufacturing investigations, and claim substantiation. Over the past few decades these techniques have enabled a deeper understanding of how treatments interact with hair at the microscopic level. Lucideon has been at the forefront of these
developments as one of the few providers operating in Europe offering qualitative and quantitative chemical imaging using four separate techniques, alongside high-resolution physical surface imaging in 2D, 3D, and video formats. Through this and more, we are able to offer a uniquely comprehensive approach to surface characterisation. These capabilities are part of a broader suite
of scientific and technical services designed to support product development from early- stage research through to performance testing and product validation. As the demand for differentiated, evidence-led hair care products grows, the application of advanced surface imaging continues to provide formulators and R&D teams with the insight needed to guide innovation and refine performance. From information obtained through lab
work, our clients are able to modify their product formulations to obtain optimum coverage of surfactant and other additive species on the hair surface following application methods such as washing treatment. This information is often vital in matching the product formulation to the stringent requirements of regulatory authorities in major market
areas such as the USA. Lucideon’s integrated approach helps
organisations make informed decisions throughout the development cycle, ultimately contributing to the creation of more effective, robust, and competitive hair care products.
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