LONGEVITY
hallmark. The mechanistic target of rapamycin (MTOR) complex-1 (MTORC1) responds to nutrients, including glucose and amino acids, and to stressors such as hypoxia and low energy to modulate the activity of numerous proteins including transcription factors.1 Besides, phosphor-mTOR inhibition is
known to reduce senescence and ageing markers and to increase longevity, maintaining ageing cells in a healthy state. Rapamycin is a very well described mTOR inhibitor, the only molecule known to increase longevity in all organisms.12
Figure 6: SOX9 expression on keratinocytes stressed with UFPs and treated with Macrocystis pyrifera extract. ***: highly significant with Student t-test, n=3
In vitro study has shown a decrease
in phospho-mTOR expression, as effectively as rapamycin, indicating a rapalog-like activity (data not shown).
A biomimetic vitamin E derivative complex
Vitamin E is one of the most important lipid- soluble primary defence antioxidant, existing in several natural forms, all forms having similar antioxidant activities, but α-tocopherol (αT) is the predominant one in human tissues.13 The major physiological route for vitamin E delivery from the blood stream to the skin is the sebaceous gland secretion,14
whereby
vitamin E provides an antioxidant effect as well as beneficial properties in inflammatory modulation, thus contributing significantly to the protective role of the sebum. At cellular level, αT is converted by phosphorylation into its biologically active form α-tocopheryl phosphate (αTP), providing additional benefits to the antioxidant effects of αT, such as signaling activity and modulatory effects on gene expression and cell fate regulation.15 To counteract Vitamin E instability in
cosmetic formulations, while increasing its biological activity, Ashland developped Vital et™ biofunctional, a unique vitamin E derivative complex composed of αTP, the
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
untreated control santalwood™ 0.001% santalwood™ 0.004% santalwood™
Figure 2: Cell viability by MTT assay on fibroblasts at subcultures 12 and 37 treated with Santaluma album wood extract. ***: highly significant with Student t-test versus proper P12 condition, mean +/- sem, n=6
water-soluble, biologically active and stable form of αT, complexed with a disodium lauriminodiproprionate moiety, inspired by the natural transporter of αT, namely the α-tocopherol transfer protein (α-TTP). First, we showed a beneficial effect of this unique vitamin E derivative complex on
inflammatory biomarkers induced by bacterial stress. To study specifically the consequences of C. acnes colonization on skin inflammation markers, we have developed a 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model using heat inactivated bacterial solution of virulent C. acnes (phylotype IA1). Hence, it was showed
0.008% P12 ■ P37 ■
55
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November 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Cellular viability (%)
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