22 IFSCC 35TH CONGRESS REVIEW
There is increasingly strong data emerging, he said, about the role of mitochondria in photoageing and regulating skin pigmentation. Genetic variations in NNT (nicotinamide nucleotide transhydrogenase), said Passeron, are linked to skin pigmentation and tanning ability. Passeron also highlighted the importance
of visible light (VL), and said that for pigmentary disorders, solar urticaria and cutaneous porphyria, the protection spectrum must include a protection against VL. SPF, UVA-PF (PPD) and, in some cases, p-VL- PF, are mandatory for choosing sunscreens with balanced photoprotection in all those indications, he added. He highlighted non-filtering photoprotective
ingredients (PINGs) as a means to overcome the limitations of conventional sunscreen filters, which were said to offer inadequate protection against long-wavelength UVA radiation, visible and infrared light, as well as being of increasing concern about their impact on the environment and endocrine disruption. PINGs could help by decreasing the
quantity of filters needed by potentiating and/ or extending their efficacy. They could also potentially stimulate the natural defences and repair the capacities of the skin. However, PINGs are supported a limited
evidence base, and Passeron stressed that they must be used as an add-on to existing sunscreen filters – they are not a replacement. Another ingredient said by Passeron to have
great potential are topical silk inhibitors. Citing a recent paper published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, an in vivo demonstration in healthy volunteers found
Amandine Scandolera,
Givaudan
Unraveling the Connection Between Neuroageing and Skin Sensitivity’ by Amandine Scandolera, head of biological evaluation at Givaudan Active Beauty, who was awarded a Top 10 nomination in the Basic Research Award. The presentation outlined an ex vivo model
designed to mimic ageing innervated skin using human skin explants co-cultured with induced pluripotent stem (iPS) cell-derived sensory neurons.
The model studied the direct impact of
that topical application of silk inhibitors can significantly increase DNA repair, remove DNA damage and decrease MMP1 activation after UV exposure. Passeron concluded by setting his vision
for personalised sun care products for different ages, skin tones and even time of day based on genetic markers, patient history, UVB, UVA, visible and IR light exposure, and other personal factors like work environment and recreational activities.
Skin neuro-ageing model Also on day one of the Congress was a presentation titled ‘The Ageing Process:
keratinocytes cell ageing on innervation degree and loss of nerve reactivity and function; the direct impact of level of innervation on epidermal integrity and reduction of skin renewal property; and the indirect impact on fibroblasts by reducing skin repair activity and losing ECM neosynthesis function. Givaduan observed a clear link between the skin and nerve fibres with a strong decline in the capacity of the epidermis to renew, said Scandolera. The implications of the findings were that active ingredients could be developed to regenerate the nerve system and restore the capacity of innervated skin, she added. “Most of the time we treat the skin layer by
layer but in fact it is much more complex, and every layer is interconnected. I strongly believe, through this work, that the nerve system could play an essential role. If we modulate the skin there is a direct influence on the nerve system. “We could imagine that, probably, some
ingredients could have an impact. Indeed, there are already promising results showing that, if we are able to restore this type of system, we can deliver fantastic anti-ageing solutions and restore the primary sensorial effect of touch – we are working on it.”
PROYA ON PROWL FOR ANTI-AGEING TECHNOLOGY PARTNERSHIPS “The objective of Proya Europe is to
China’s largest beauty brand, Proya Cosmetics, is seeking European partners to boost its expertise in anti-ageing active ingredient technology. Proya is considered China’s biggest beauty
group, having surpassed $1.4 billion in sales and being the first Chinese cosmetics firm to achieve over 10 billion yuan in annual revenue in 2024. Founded in 2003 by company president
Hou Juncheng in Hangzhou, China, Proya has become a premium skin care brand backed by research and input from dermatologists. The company has set a goal to become
a global top 10 company through R&D and strategic acquisitions of Western brands. Last year, it opened the Proya Europe
Innovation Centre in Paris, France, as a key step in its internationalization strategy. Its strategic goals focus on R&D technology innovation, global resource integration, and enhancing Proya Cosmetics’ international influence. Antoine Deconinck (pictured, far left), managing director of Proya Europe, said the company had recently renewed partnerships with Ashland and DSM-Firmenich but is now looking for smaller players.
PERSONAL CARE November 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
connect with European suppliers to provide some premium resources and to reinforce our leadership in China, and to develop our internationalisation strategy,” he told Personal Care.
“We are looking for partnerships with smaller
companies that are very strong, especially in Europe, in anti-ageing and sensitive skin”. At a recent shareholder meeting, Hou
Juncheng said Proya wants to acquire European brands through its French branch to fill gaps in
categories like children’s products, fragrances, and men’s products, and then introduce them to China. Speaking to Personal Care, Hou (pictured,
centre) said: “We really want to work with French, British and other European research institutions to share the top technologies. This is the first step; to learn and to share. “We are also looking for products that
Proya doesn’t have – like perfume and certain skin care technologies – to bring them to the Chinese and southeast Asia market.”
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