62 MENOPAUSAL SKIN CARE
retinol treatment. Dermal hyaluronic acid was 62% higher
than control for the treatment with the recombinant elastin, and the level of HA in the dermis was comparable to that obtained with retinol treatment. Finally, the content of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis was also quantified, with recombinant human elastin treatment leading to 289% higher levels of HA in the epidermis relative to control and 81% higher than what was obtained with retinol treatment.
These performance markers strongly
suggest the potential of this ingredient in promoting skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, which are foundational elements to support a youthful-looking skin.
Conclusion The preservation and repair of the elastic fibres in the skin, along with other key ECM components, is a critical dimension of maintaining and promoting a youthful appearance to the skin and combating the signs of age. Research shows that this cosmetic strategy is even more important for people who go through menopause. However, stimulation of elastin production presents challenges, and most cosmetic strategies focus on protection mechanisms to slow down its degradation. Using a biomimetic approach, a
recombinant polypeptide corresponding to a bioactive section of the human elastin sequence was developed for cosmetic use. Our research unveils the potential of this novel ingredient in targeting hard-to-achieve efficacy even when conditions are unfavourable for ECM stimulation, creating opportunities for cosmetic products to more effectively address the signs of skin ageing, especially for consumer segments, like menopausal individuals, where efficacy has traditionally been difficult to achieve. Elastapure offers new levers of
performance for anti-ageing strategies, surpassing the efficacy of name-sake active ingredients at much lower concentrations. At the same time, it is a demonstration of the power of biodesigned polypeptides for the development of more efficacious and multi-pronged approaches to address latent consumer concerns.
References 1. Bolognia JL, Braverman IM, Rousseau ME, Sarrel PM. Skin changes in menopause. Maturitas. 1989 Dec 1;11(4):295–304
2. Affinito P, Palomba S, Sorrentino C, Di Carlo C, Bifulco G, Arienzo MP, et al. Effects of postmenopausal hypoestrogenism on skin collagen. Maturitas. 1999 Dec;33(3):239–47
3. Lee DH, Oh JH, Chung JH. Glycosaminoglycan and proteoglycan in skin aging. J Dermatol Sci. 2016 Sept;83(3):174–81
4. Thornton MJ. Estrogens and aging skin. Dermatoendocrinol. 2013 Apr;5(2):264–70
5. Yue B. Biology of the extracellular matrix: an overview. J Glaucoma. 2014;23(8 Suppl 1):S20-23
6. Diller RB, Tabor AJ. The Role of the PERSONAL CARE November 2025 B
60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
A
16% 14% 12% 10% 8% 6% 4% 2% 0%
Elastin in the papillary dermis (% surface) ***
***
Control
Retinol cream (1%)
Elastapure (3mg/ml)
Hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis (% surface) ***
Control C
35% 30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%
Retinol cream (1%)
Elastapure (3mg/ml)
Hyaluronic acid in the epidermis (% surface) ***
*
Control
Retinol cream (1%)
Elastapure (3mg/ml)
Figure 5: Assessment of elastin and hyaluronic acid levels in skin explants after topical treatments. Significance was assessed with paired t-test (*: p< 0.05, **: p<0.01, ***: p<0.001). A: average % surface of elastin network in the papillary dermis after different treatments. B: average % surface of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis after different treatments C: average % surface of hyaluronic PC acid in the epidermis after different treatments
Extracellular Matrix (ECM) in Wound Healing: A Review. Biomimetics. 2022 July 1;7(3):87
7. Uitto J, Li Q, Urban Z. The complexity of elastic fibre biogenesis in the skin – a perspective to the clinical heterogeneity of cutis laxa. Exp Dermatol. 2013 Feb;22(2):88– 92
8. Trębacz H, Barzycka A. Mechanical Properties and Functions of Elastin: An Overview. Biomolecules. 2023 Mar 22;13(3):574.
9. Anderegg U, Simon JC, Averbeck M. More than just a filler – the role of hyaluronan for skin homeostasis. Exp Dermatol. 2014 May;23(5):295–303
10. Schmelzer CEH, Duca L. Elastic fibers: formation, function, and fate during aging and disease. FEBS J. 2022
July;289(13):3704–30
11. Pilkington SM, Bulfone-Paus S, Griffiths CEM, Watson REB. Inflammaging and the Skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2021 Apr;141(4):1087–95
12. Bottai G, Mancina R, Muratori M, Di Gennaro P, Lotti T. 17b-estradiol protects human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes against oxidative damage. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2013 Oct;27(10):1236–43
13. Gene Cards, The Human Gene Database [Internet]. Gene Cards. Available from: https://
www.genecards.org/
14. Remoué N, Molinari J, Andres E, Lago JC, Barrichello C, Moreira PL. Development of an in vitro model of menopause using primary human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Dec;35(6):546–54
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HAPB (% Surface)
HAPB (% Surface)
Elastin (% Surface)
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