56 LONGEVITY IL-1α
400 300 200 100 0
Placebo
C.acnes
-52% ***
IL-8
500 400 300 200 100 0
C.acnes + 1% vital et™ Placebo
C.acnes IL-6
-64% ***
C.acnes + 1% vital et™
500 400 300 200 100 0
-50% ***
Placebo
C.acnes
C.acnes + 1% vital et™
Figure 8: Pro-inflammatory cytokines mRNA levels after topical application of heat-inactivated C. acnes on RHE and treatment with vitamin E derivative complex. ***: highly significant with Student t-test versus C. acnes control condition; n=3
that the topical application of our vitamin E derivative complex helps limiting inflammatory biomarkers expression under microbial stress conditions, thus preventing the development of a vicious circle of chronic inflammation (Figure 8). Other studies highlighted the beneficial
activity of this biomimetic vitamin E derivative complex on inflammatory biomarkers under acute and chronic UV stress, under mechanical stress and under senescence-associated stress (data not shown), thus indicating that this bioactive can be considered as a holistic solution to address chronic inflammation mechanisms in the skin.
Conclusion The era of anti-ageing is behind us, and now longevity sets the tone for supporting the skin in its golden years and beyond. Scientific approaches now consider the
root causes of ageing, particularly by targeting early molecular and cellular events, leading to the development of effective preventive and pro-active interventions. This is not the easiest approach, as providing science-backed efficacy data on the hallmarks of ageing is a real challenge, but it also opens the door to new evaluation designs, such as measuring biological age via specific biomarkers or perceived age via AI-driven tools. Those major movements shaping
tomorrow’s health and beauty have driven our experts for over 20 years, leading to the creation of a unique and comprehensive range of bioactive solutions that address all the hallmarks of ageing, without exception. It continues to fuel our inspiration today. If you had the chance to peek inside our laboratory, you would see that our researchers have recently turned their attention to mitochondrial dysfunction. Beyond their essential role in energy
production, mitochondria orchestrate metabolic adaptation that positions them as a decisive driver of skin longevity. Proteomic investigations led our experts to develop an innovative Iris pallida root extract, processed with the PSR technology, and designed to target a key
PERSONAL CARE November 2025
mitopeptide called humanin. Humanin is a microprotein encoded by
mitochondrial DNA, a core regulator of lifespan and healthspan, interestingly expressed at a higher level in centenarians.16
Mitochondrial
microproteins emerge as potential anti-ageing mediators that link organellar function to organismal homeostasis. Within this framework, mitochondrial
biology emerges as a central regulator of cutaneous ageing and Ashland is currently designing a new concept around the Mitobiology™, aiming at repositioning mitochondria at the heart of cell biology. Our experts will be excited to share new results very soon on those fascinating discoveries.
a conserved ribonuclease domain that represses target transcript translation and abundance in cells. Nucleic Acids Research. 2018; 46(12):6257-6270
8. Onder Y, Laothamatas I, Berto S, Sewart K, Kilaru G, Bordieanu B, Stubblefield JJ, Konopka G, Mishra P, Green CB. The Circadian Protein Nocturnin Regulates Metabolic Adaptation in Brown Adipose Tissue. iScience. 2019; 19:83–92
9. Kadaja M, Keyes BE, Lin M, Pasolli HA, Genander M, Polak L, Stokes N, Zheng D, Fuchs E. SOX9: a stem cell transcriptional regulator of secreted niche signaling factors. Genes Dev. 2014; 28(4):328-341
PC
References 1. López-Otín C, Blasco MA, Partridge L, Serrano M, Kroemer G. Hallmarks of aging: An expanding universe. Cell. 2023; 186(2):243- 278
2. Kang S, Park J, Cheng Z, Ye S, Jun SH, Kang NG. Novel Approach to Skin Anti- Aging: Boosting Pharmacological Effects of Exogenous Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide (NAD+) by Synergistic Inhibition of CD38 Expression. Cells. 2024; 13, 1799
3. Schommer NN, Gallo RL. Structure and function of the human skin microbiome. Microbiology. 2013; 21
4. López V, Nielsen B, Solas M, Ramírez MJ, Jäger AK. Exploring Pharmacological mechanisms of Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Essential Oil on Central Nervous System Targets. Front Pharmacol. 2017; 8:280
5. Lyons AB, Moy L, Moy R, Tung R. Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of Literature. J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2019; 12(9):42-45
6. Premi S, Wallisch S, Mano CM, Weiner AB, Bacchiocchi A, Wakamatsu K, Bechara EJH, Halaban R, Douki T, Brash DE. Chemiexcitation of Melanin Derivatives Induces DNA Photoproducts Long after UV Exposure. Science; 2015; 347(6224):842–847
7. Abshire ET, Chasseur J, Bohn JA, Del Rizzo PA, Freddolino PL, Goldstrohm AC, Trievel RC. The structure of human nocturnin reveals
10. Antonelli M et al. Forest Volatile Organic Compounds and Their Effects on Human Health: A State-of-the- Art Review. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. 2020; 17(18):6506
11. Seo J, Choi S, Kim H, Park SH, Lee J. Association between Olfactory Receptors and Skin Physiology. Ann Dermatol. 2022; 24;34(2):87–94
12. Weichhart T. mTOR as Regulator of Lifespan, Aging, and Cellular Senescence: A Mini- Review. Gerontology. 2018; 64(2):127-134
13. Jiang Q. Metabolism of natural forms of vitamin E and biological actions of vitamin E metabolites. Free Radic Biol Med. 2022; Feb 1;179:375-387
14. Thiele JJ, Weber SU, Packer L. Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1999 Dec;113(6):1006-10
15. Azzi A, Meydani SN, Meydani M, Zingg JM. The rise, the fall and the renaissance of vitamin E. Arch Biochem Biophys. 2016; Apr 1;595:100-8
16. Yen K, Mehta HH, Kim SJ, Lue Y, Hoang J, Guerrero N, Port J, Bi Q, Navarrete G, Brandhorst S, Lewis KN, Wan J, Swerdloff R, Mattison JA, Buffenstein R, Breton CV, Wang C, Longo V, Atzmon G, Wallace D, Barzilai N, Cohen P. The mitochondrial derived peptide humanin is a regulator of lifespan and healthspan. Aging. 2020; 23;12(12):11185-11199
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