LONGEVITY
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Figure 1: Ashland’s biofunctional solutions addressing the hallmarks of ageing
to release small RNAs from plant cells, leading to a new generation of vegetal extracts, allowing to harness the epigenetic potential of plants. Naturally rich in potent phytomolecules such as polyphenols, reduced sugars, free amino-acids and organic acids, Rosa centifolia has been used in beauty care through ages for its soothing and regenerative properties. This unique Rosa centifolia extract is an elegant extract from this legendary flower of ‘eternal beauty’ locally sourced in the south of France. Our Rosa centifolia extract was inspired by
regenerative medicine to achieve an ideal repair of skin associated with skin perfecting benefits on age-related marks. In this study, we focused on nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), an essential mediator for the regulation of biological mechanisms related to age-dependent decline that lies at the crossroads of most hallmarks of ageing,2
including mitochondrial dysfunction,
disabled macroautophagy, loss of proteostasis, and more. In vitro results show an increase in NAD+ level
in keratinocytes treated with Rosa centifolia extract , as effectively as niacinamide (Figure 2). Interestingly, skin repair was reported to
be impaired in some models of disturbed cutaneous microbiota. In fact, the skin is constantly exposed to various endogenous and exogenous factors which potentially impact skin microbiota balance.3 A model of dysbiosis was developed using
an unhealthy ratio of S. epidermis/S. aureus applied on reconstructed human skin (RHE) and leading to a defect in skin epidermal cohesion characterized by a decrease of claudin-1 expression. Application of 1% Rosa centifolia extract helped to counteract dysbiosis-related damage (Figure 3). Ultimately, it has been recently shown that
this Rosa centifolia extract can also act on altered intercellular communication through an increase in exosome release in treated keratinocytes (data not shown).
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Figure 2: NAD+ level on keratinocytes treated with Rosa centifolia extract versus niacinamide, ***: highly significant with Student t-test, mean +/- sem, n=4
A lavender extract rich in plant small RNAs Ashland PSR technology was also used to develop a premium innovative Lavendula angustifolia flower extract rich in small RNAs and showing a unique phytocompound signature compared to a conventional extract. Lavandula angustifolia is part of the
Lamiaceae family and is commonly named ‘the blue flower’ or ‘the Provence’s blue gold’, as it is emblematic of the summer landscapes of Provence in France. Lavender has been used throughout centuries for its fragrance properties, for its relaxing effects and is recognized as a medicinal plant for phytotherapy in the European pharmacopeia.4 Skin is constantly facing external assaults and must set up various adaptive and restorative mechanisms during the day. At night too! Specific mechanisms, including DNA repair and cell proliferation, take place, indicating that
skin is still active even when we are sleeping.5 Noctology™ refers to the study of the
nighttime processes that allow the skin to rest and renew itself. Among Noctology mechanisms, we investigated DNA repair of ‘dark CPDs’ damage and the regulation of mRNA quality control by the enzyme nocturnin. Ultraviolet radiations (mainly UV-B) induce
cytotoxic DNA lesions such as Cyclobutene- pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) within picoseconds after irradiation. In melanocytes, CPDs continue to be generated 3-4 hours and more after UV exposure ended. These are called “dark CPDs” and arise when
UV-induced ROS initiate a chemiexcitation of melanin, leading to the transfer of energy to DNA in the same way as UV photon does.6 Nightessence™ biofunctional helps limit dark DNA damage occurring from four hours to 24 hours after UV exposure (Figure 4). Nocturnin is a circadian protein controlled
November 2025 PERSONAL CARE 1h
180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
CTR
+28% ***
ns
+19% ***
+47% ***
48h ns
+37% ***
Rosaliss™
Niacinamide
Rosaliss™
Niacinamide
NAD+
level (%)
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