46 SKIN CARE
D0
D28 Figure 4: Ultrasound analysis of dermal intensity. The treatment group showed an increased protein content after 28 days of trial
amounts and proportions for proper cellular functions. If we can produce a cell-identical mixture of the growth factors and signaling proteins and turn them into smaller-sized multi-peptides that the skin can absorb, they can support collagen and ECM formation in our skin. Unfortunately, we cannot get these from
plants. Plantae biological makeup is different from that of Animalia. These signaling proteins appear in animal tissues, but in minute amounts and chemical extraction cannot harness them. Synthetic peptides are neither bioidentical nor sufficient for multiple cellular pathways. Single protein molecules produced by
recombinant technology are biologically similar. Yet, the molecule is only one of the hundreds of signaling proteins needed, resulting in limited benefits and overdosage risk. With the advancement of biotechnology, it is possible to produce cell-identical multi- peptides. Cells are taken from a single fish and are used to produce an exponential number of additional cells inside a sterile bioreactor. Notably, due to this patented cell cultivation technology, no additional fish or other animals are needed beyond this single initial fish. It is 100% traceable source-to-ingredient. The patented process produces a biopeptide complex for various skincare applications. Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization-
time of flight (MALDI-TOF) mass spectrometry (MS) analysis revealed that the biopeptide complex comprises a blend of peptides mostly ranging from 100 Da to 500 Da (Figure 1). These small peptides are capable of being absorbed by the skin. In addition to ECM signaling peptides, the
biopeptide complex also contains copper tripeptide (GHK) and peptides derived from collagen. GHK, composed of the amino acids glycine, histidine, and lysine, is typically found in ECM proteins. It is released through the breakdown of cells or the ECM following injury and may play a role in wound healing. Analysis shows that the hydrolysis process of the platform produces GHK peptides from
PERSONAL CARE May 2025
TABLE 1: AGE DISTRIBUTION OF THE COHORT Group
No. of subjects
Test Placebo
30 30
Min. age
35 30
Max. age
55 55
Mean age
SD
48.03 6.53 42.90
8.01
the cultivated cells. Notably, the biopeptide complex contains GHK peptides originating from ECM proteins such as collagen and SPARC, alongside other cell-identical multiple peptides.
Biopeptide complex stimulates healthy ECM metabolism The role of the biopeptide complex in skin ECM metabolism was investigated using a human skin cell model. The human keratinocyte line HaCaT was treated with 1% biopeptide complex for 24 hours. Gene modulation was measured using the RT2 Profiler PCR Array (Qiagen), targeting human genes related to wound healing.
The PCR array results indicated that
genes associated with skin regeneration were stimulated and upregulated following the treatment. Notably, genes related to healthy ECM metabolisms, such as Collagen Type IV Alpha 1 Chain (COL4A1), CTGF, HBEGF, TGFA and ITGA1 were upregulated. To validate the PCR array results, we measured the gene expression in HaCaT cells after 1% biopeptide complex treatment using quantitative PCR and compared it with untreated control. The results demonstrated that the biopeptide complex significantly upregulated these genes (Figure 2). Moreover, both biopeptide complex and
hydrolyzed collagen stimulate the cells and increase the production of proteins responsible for healthy skin metabolism. However, the biopeptide complex demonstrated a more significant and broader effect compared to hydrolyzed collagen.
Clinical trial of a biopeptide complex eye cream A randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted using an eye cream containing
1% biopeptide complex. The placebo was the same eye cream without biopeptide complex. The cohort consisted of 30 healthy Chinese female individuals in the test group and 30 in the placebo group. The age range in the test group was 35-55
years, with a mean age of 48.03 (Table 1). The placebo group had an age range of 30-55 years, with a mean age of 42.90. Participants applied the eye cream to the eye contour area (including the ocular area) twice daily for 28 days. Measurements were taken at baseline (D0) and after 28 days of product use (D28). Skin hydration and transepidermal
water loss (TEWL) were measured using a Corneometer CM825 and a Tewameter Tm30 respectively. Skin elasticity and firmness were evaluated with a Cutometer MPA580, and skin ultrasound was performed using a DermaLab Combo. Safety and adverse effects were assessed by a dermatologist at D0 and D28. Differences between baseline (D0) and post- treatment (D28) values were analyzed using repeated-measures ANOVA. Compared to baseline (D0), skin hydration
in the test group increased by 19.38% at D28, versus 6.32% in the placebo group (Figure 3A). The test group showed a significant increase in skin hydration at D28, indicating the improved moisturizing efficacy of the test product. TEWL in the test group decreased by
19.49% at D28, significantly better than the 3.57% decrease in the placebo group (Figure 3A). The test group showed a significant reduction in TEWL at D28, indicating a strengthened skin barrier function. Skin elasticity, determined by the ratio of
skin rebound without pressure to maximum stretching under pressure, improved by 10.44% in the test group compared to 2.78% in the control group (Figure 3C). The test group showed a significant increase in skin elasticity at D28, indicating improved skin bounciness. Skin firmness, determined by the skin‘s
ability to resist deformation, improved by 19.69% at D28 in the test group, significantly better than the 8.42% improvement in the
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