NATURAL INGREDIENTS


Palm oil-free alternatives for cosmetics


Annika Greupner, Katharina Braun - Cosphatec


The cosmetics industry is undergoing a transformation, driven by a growing awareness of sustainability and ethical sourcing of ingredients. One of the main focal points of this change is the role of palm oil, a common source of raw materials with significant environmental and ethical impacts. Consumers, being aware of this issue, are


now paying more attention to the ecological certifications of personal care products and are therefore also demanding ingredients that are either from certified sustainable palm oil cultivation or from completely palm oil-free sources. These trends are in line with evolving environmental regulations and advanced certification standards, leading to the development of innovative, more environmentally friendly formulations. Recent market analyses underline this


trend. The global palm oil-free skincare market is forecast to reach a value of about USD four billion by 2034, indicating significant expected growth over the next decade. 1


Environmental and ethical challenges in palm oil production The large-scale use of palm oil in cosmetics is due to its versatility as a starting material to produce emulsifiers, humectants and surfactants. However, its production raises significant environmental and ethical concerns. Worldwide, around 27 million hectares


of land are used for palm oil cultivation. In many regions, this expansion is accompanied by large-scale deforestation, including tropical rainforests, often through slash-and- burn practices. These practices contribute significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, biodiversity loss and the destruction of ecosystems that are crucial for endangered species such as orangutans.2 In terms of ethics, the working conditions


on palm oil plantations are often criticised. Reports of unfair wages, unsafe working conditions and the exploitation of workers have prompted calls for greater transparency and accountability. These problems emphasise the urgent need for sustainable palm oil cultivation and alternative ingredients that take both environmental and social concerns into account. Manufacturers are increasingly expected to conduct rigorous supply chain audits and prioritise sustainable sourcing practices to meet changing consumer expectations.


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Sustainable raw materials for palm oil-free cosmetics Ingredients from innovative sustainable sources provide an alternative to palm oil-derived raw materials in cosmetics for those who want to turn away from palm oil entirely. Two promising options for palm-oil free preservation of cosmetics are fermentation-derived propanediol and a blend consisting of the organic acid levulinic acid and its sodium salt.


Propanediol obtained through corn fermentation Propanediol is a multifunctional diol that can be obtained through the fermentation of corn instead of palm oil. It is often used in cosmetics as it moisturises the skin without leaving a sticky residue. Due to its polar nature, propanediol readily dissolves in water, making it an excellent alternative to glycerin. Its additional benefits include improving the


texture of formulations as well as stabilising emulsions by being able to reduce droplet particle size, resulting in smoother and more


consistent formulations. It acts as a solvent that ensures even distribution of active ingredients and improves their penetration for better efficacy. Propanediol also enhances antimicrobial efficacy when used with other preservatives, allowing for gentler preservative systems. In concentrations between 1.0 % and 5.0 %, it is a key component of countless cosmetic products.


Levulinic acid blend with palm oil- free glycerin Levulinic acid, sodium levulinate and glycerin, which can be derived from the renewable raw materials sugar cane or corn and rapeseed, are valued for their multifunctionality in palm oil-free cosmetics. Their blend provides gentle antimicrobial protection, especially in combination with surface-active substances, and nourishes the skin by improving its softness and hydration. It maintains antimicrobial stability in


formulations with a pH of up to 6.0, making it a reliable choice for mild yet effective preservative


May 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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