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SKIN CARE


its key components using a dereplication analysis and High-Performance Thin Layer Chromatography (HPTLC). As a result, moringin and its glycosylated form glucomoringin were identified as key active components together with a rich polyphenol and flavonoid profile (Figure 2). The scientific literature1,2,3,4,5


characterizes


moringin, the active compound in the moringa seed extract, as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compound that inhibits the inflammatory NF-κB pathway while activating the antioxidative NRF2-pathway (Figure 3). Based on this dual action, the moringa


seed extract has the potential to reduce levels of inflammatory markers, matrix- metalloproteinases (MMPs) and nitric oxide (NO), making it a promising ingredient for skin recovery and skin protection.


The moringa seed extract reduces inflammatory responses in vitro Skin inflammation is typically related to: (i) high levels of inflammatory markers; (ii) the synthesis of matrix-metalloproteinases (MMP); and (iii) elevated levels of nitric oxide (NO). Therefore, we examined the inhibitory effect of the moringa seed extract on (i) the release of inflammatory markers, (ii) the synthesis of MMPs and (iii) the release of NO (not shown) upon inflammation. Inflammatory markers like cytokines, chemokines, enzymes, and other molecules mediate, regulate, and participate in the inflammatory processes. They contribute to clinical symptoms of inflammation, such as redness, heat, swelling, and pain. Common cytokines involved in skin inflammation help in recruiting and activating immune cells to the site of inflammation. To study the effect of moringa seed extract on inflammatory markers, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) were treated with Interleukin-1β (IL-1β) to induce the release of inflammatory markers (8-isoprostane,


100%


29


Figure 1: Sourcing moringa seed cake supports an ethical and sustainable supply chain. One moringa tree can produce about 15,000 seeds annually and cold pressing yields ca. 15% precious moringa oil. Lipoid Kosmetik upcycles the remaining seed cake, a by-product of oil production, thereby promoting sustainability and economic opportunities for farming families in Rwanda


prostaglandin E2 (PGE2 ), IL-8 and IL-6). The


release of inflammatory markers was measured by an Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA) upon co-incubation with different concentrations of the moringa seed extract. As a result, the moringa seed extract displays


anti-inflammatory activity by reducing the levels of the inflammatory markers IL-6, IL-8, PGE2


,


8-isoprostane in vitro (Figure 4). MMPs modulate inflammation by


processing and activating cytokines and chemokines. For example, some MMPs can activate IL-1β, a potent inflammatory cytokine,


7.36 402.12 Moringin


13.45 356.08


8.58 5.30 0% 1.00 100% 2.00


2.93 341.11


3.00 4.00 570.09 5.00


5.29 570.10


Glucomoringin


3.37 341.11


0% 1.00 2.00 3.00 4.00 5.00 6.00 7.00 8.00 9.00 Time (min) 10.00 11.00 12.00 13.00 14.00 15.00 16.00


6.23 402.12 432.15


7.18 7.91 349.06 6.00 7.00 8.00 9.00 10.00 579.20


10.78 342.10


11.00 12.00


13.00 OH


HO HO HO O 14.00 S N K+ O3 - HOH3


SO C


HO OH References


Moringa Seed Extract


Figure 2: The moringa seed extract contains moringin and glucomoringin as main active constituents. (A) Dereplication analysis: A preliminary liquid-liquid extraction was conducted to separate the extract’s metabolites from a glycerol matrix, resulting in two distinct phases. Both phases were analyzed using high- resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). (B) HPTLC fingerprint: The polyphenol and flavonoid profiles of the moringa seed extract (left lane) were compared to moringin and glucomoringin as pure external standards (right lane)


www.personalcaremagazine.com May 2025 PERSONAL CARE O O 15.00 16.00 Glucomoringin S C N O HO H3 C HO O OH


HPTLC Fingerprint Moringin


thereby amplifying the inflammatory response. Furthermore, MMPs degrade components of the extracellular matrix such as collagen, thereby facilitating the migration of immune cells to the site of inflammation, amplifying the immune response. To study the effect of the moringa seed


extract on MMP synthesis, immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT) were first stimulated with polyinosinic-polycytidylic acid (Poly I:C), a synthetic double-stranded RNA molecule that mimics viral infection and triggers an inflammatory response, including


Phase B


Phase A


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