40 NATURAL INGREDIENTS TABLE 1: PROPERTIES OF PALM OIL-FREE PRESERVATIVE ALTERNATIVES
Cosphaderm® Propanediol natural palm free
INCI Source Recommended use concentration Functions pH range Physical appearance
Propanediol Corn
1.0 - 5.0 %
Humectant Solvent Antimicrobial booster Viscosity control
pH-independent
Clear, colourless, odourless liquid
systems. The blend of levulinic acid and sodium levulinate as part of a mixture with glycerin and water is effective at concentrations between 0.5 % and 1.0 % with the ingredients providing both convincing preservative and notable skin conditioning benefits in sustainable formulations.
Innovations in sustainable sourcing In order to minimise the ecological footprint of raw material production, the cosmetics industry relies on innovative agricultural and biotechnological processes to advance the sustainable cultivation of palm oil. These approaches not only contribute to the concept of sustainability but also create new opportunities for the development of ingredients. Agroforestry, the practice of integrating trees
and other plants into agricultural landscapes, offers a sustainable alternative to monocultures on palm plantations. By promoting biodiversity and preventing soil degradation, these mixed farming methods create balanced ecosystems. This approach reduces the ecological impact of raw material production and supports farmers’ sustainable livelihoods. In addition, biotechnology is revolutionising
the production of cosmetic ingredients. Microbial fermentation, for example, enables the production of bio-based ingredients from waste products or non-edible plants. This method reduces dependence on arable land and lowers greenhouse gas emissions, which is in line with the principles of circular economy. The circular economy model emphasises
the reuse of by-products from other industries as raw materials for cosmetics. For example, residues from food processing can serve as feedstock for biotechnological processes, creating added value from waste while minimising environmental impact.
Regulatory and certification considerations For cosmetic manufacturers, considering regulatory requirements is essential when offering palm oil-free or RSPO-certified products. Certifications such as COSMOS and NATRUE provide consumers with assurance that these products adhere to rigorous standards for natural and organic cosmetics. These certifications evaluate various criteria, including
PERSONAL CARE May 2025 Cosphaderm® LA-T palm free
Levulinic Acid, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Aqua
Corn/sugar cane, rapeseed 0.5 - 1.0 %
Antimicrobial Skin conditioning Masking
Max. 6.0
Clear, slightly yellow liquid, characteristic odour
ingredient sourcing, environmental impact, and ethical practices. COSMOS certification emphasises the use of
organic and natural ingredients while ensuring sustainable sourcing and environmentally friendly production processes. NATRUE certification guarantees that products are free from synthetic additives and meet high environmental and ethical standards. The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm
Oil (RSPO) is a global certification standard that promotes the production and use of sustainable palm oil through practices that reduce deforestation, protect biodiversity, and uphold ethical labour standards. It provides guidelines for responsible sourcing and ensures transparency across the supply chain. Although the RSPO certification specifically
addresses sustainable palm oil, it promotes responsible practices that align with broader sustainability goals, serving as a foundation for improved environmental outcomes. Transparency and clear labelling are
necessary for earning consumer trust. Claims such as ‘palm oil-free’ or ‘sustainably certified’ must be supported by verifiable data to maintain credibility. Regulatory authorities in different regions often enforce specific guidelines for ingredient disclosure, making thorough documentation a vital aspect of product development. Transparent communication backed by evidence ensures compliance while fostering consumer confidence in sustainable and palm oil-free cosmetics.
Consumer expectations and trends Consumers are increasingly prioritising cosmetics that reflect their values, particularly in the areas of sustainability, ethical sourcing, and clean beauty. This shift has increased the demand for products that are either sustainability-certified or palm-oil free. As ethical procurement remains a central aspect of consumer expectations, transparent supply chains and fair labour conditions are essential to gain consumer trust. Palm oil-free cosmetics are often perceived as particularly environmentally friendly by the public, as they are associated with a reduction in deforestation and the protection of biodiversity. However, it is important to
note that “palm oil-free” alone is not always synonymous with sustainability. The RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm
Oil) plays an important role here as it offers a sustainable alternative through strict standards for the cultivation and procurement of palm oil that takes ecological and social aspects into account. Hence, when reviewing raw materials made from palm oil substitutes, it must be ensured that sustainability is equally prioritised during the manufacturing of those alternative ingredients. At the same time, the clean beauty
movement is focussing on multifunctional ingredients that are not only safe, but also sustainable and effective. This trend emphasises the use of safe, natural ingredients with low environmental impact and responsibility towards people and nature. Palm oil-free ingredients and sustainable
alternatives – whether obtained through innovative raw materials or certified palm oil - increasingly meet the consumers’ combined values of sustainability, ethics and functionality and are therefore shaping the future of the cosmetics industry.
Research and development efforts Research and development play a crucial role in the identification and further development of alternative raw materials for cosmetics. Collaboration between academia, industry and government is key to accelerating innovation. Utilising other plant sources and the field of fermentation enables new development approaches to create cosmetic ingredients without palm oil - and therefore without its environmental drawbacks. It is equally important to educate consumers about the benefits of sustainable palm oil and palm oil-free products and the science behind sustainable alternatives. Advocacy efforts that focus on the environmental and social impacts of palm oil production can encourage consumers to make more informed choices and foster policies that support sustainable palm oil practices. A coordinated global effort is needed to
address the challenges of palm oil production. Initiatives that bring together governments, non-governmental organisations and industry stakeholders can promote sustainable practices
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