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tested, tend to have higher spread than the dimethicones and cyclopentasiloxane. The slip and spread evaluations allow formulators to pinpoint the desired aesthetics of silicones compared to silicone alternatives like Floramac 10.
Matching the sensory profile in formulation In order to confirm if this sensory is achieved in formulation, evaluations were performed within a primer formula (Table 1) comparing ‘Test Emollient’ 10% Floramac 10 to 10% dimethicone 5cst. Female consumers (n=57) were asked to evaluate the primers in a split face study over the course of 4 days of use. Evaluations were made during application, immediately after applying, and after eight hours of wear. Subjects rated each statement for each product as Strongly Disagree, Somewhat Disagree (negative responders), Neither Agree Nor Disagree (neutral responders), Strongly Agree, or Somewhat Agree (positive responders). The results in Table 2 show the statistically
significant percentage of positive responders for the specified questions for each product. Similar to what was seen with the neat raw materials, Floramac 10 and dimethicone 5cst were scored in a similar fashion to one another when included within a finished formulation, and both products contributed to producing a light/pleasant texture that was easy to spread and left the skin smoother.
Formulation functionality Volatile silicones like dimethicone 5cst are often included within sunscreens and color cosmetic products to impart a silky, smooth sensory experience. Additional requirements of such formulas include pigment/mineral sunscreen wetting and dispersion, and sunscreen solubilization. Floramac 10 was evaluated compared
to dimethicone 5cst for the solubilization/ dispersion of a variety of sunscreen actives. The sunscreen actives were loaded into the emollients between 10-35% to determine compatibility. Samples were heated to 70°C in cases where the mixtures were not homogeneous. The data in Table 3 show that Floramac 10 is more effective at dispersing sunscreen actives and performs similarly to the positive control (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate).
50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
COVER STORY: CARGILL
LOW SPREAD HIGH SLIP
HIGH SPREAD HIGH SLIP
A – Cyclopentasiloxane B – Dimethicone 5cst C – C15-19 Alkane D – Isoamy Laurate E – C12-15 Alkane F – Dicaprylyl Carbonate G – Dimethicone 200cs
G B A
LOW SPREAD LOW SLIP
Increasing Spread Spread (percentage)
Figure 3: Slip and Spread of Floramac 10 compared to silicones and silicone alternatives
TABLE 1: VEHICLE PRIMER FORMULA Phase
Ingredients INCI
A Demineralized Water Aqua Glycerin
B
Actigum™ CS 11 QD Test Emollient Florasun® 90
Emultop™ Velvet IP Emulsifier C Timica Yellow
Timica Terra Red StarDesign™ Ultra
D Vitamin E
IscaguardPEHG Citric Acid
Suppliers: 1. Cargill Glycerin
Sclerotium Gum -
Helianthus annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Lechitin
Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed OilPolyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide Sodium StarchOctenylsuccinate D-alpha tocopherol acetate
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Citric Acid (and) Water)
2. Floratech, a Cargill company 3. BASF 4. ISCA Floramac 10 was also evaluated for pigment
dispersion stability compared to other silicone alternatives. A pigment blend was added to a beaker followed by the emollient for a total of 60 grams (40% pigment blend + 60% emollient) and allowed to rest for 24 hours undisturbed. The mixture was mixed by hand at room temperature until uniform, and then placed on a three-roll roller mill and rolled through four times. Viscosity measurements were taken of each mixture immediately after milling, and seven days after milling. A change in viscosity over time is indicative of pigment agglomeration. The data in Figure 4 indicate that Floramac 10 resulted in small viscosity changes over
TABLE 2: CONSUMER EVALUATION IN A PRIMER Evaluation Time
Question
Immediately after primer application
Figure 4: Pigment Dispersion Stability with Floramac 10
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
After applying BB cream foundation + 8 hours of wear
I felt the texture of Primer was Light/Pleasant during the application
I felt Primer was Easy to Spread and Apply
1-3 minutes after primer application I felt my skin was Smoother with Primer
Primer was Pleasant to wear for 8 hours
time, which is indicative of less pigment agglomeration.
Added benefit of improved hydration and radiance Primarily used for their pleasant skin feel, volatile silicones often lack additional skin benefit. In addition to a similar sensory to some silicones, Floramac 10 can offer an additional benefit of skin hydration (Corneometer) and radiance (Glossymeter).3 These were evaluated after one application of a lotion with 5% Floramac 10, compared to silicones and other naturally-derived silicone alternatives, on the legs of female subjects
Floramac 10 Dimethicone 5cst
82% (p<0.05) 77% (p<0.05) 91% (p<0.05)
91% (p<0.05) 70% (p<0.05) 72% (p<0.05) 70% (p<0.05) 72% (p<0.05)
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3 3 1 1
4 1
SPLR % w/w 71.78
1 1
2 1
5
0.8 10 5
0.3 1
0.01 0.01 5
0.1 1
0.5 F Floramac 10 D
HIGH SPREAD LOW SLIP
C E
Relative Percent Change in Viscosity (7 days)
Floramac 10 C15-19 Alkane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Isoamyl Laurate
C13-15 Alkane
Increasing Slip Slip (percentage)
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