24 WATERLESS FORMULATION
added to the oil phase under high agitation (1500 rpm using a rotor-stator propeller) for 15 minutes.
The stirring was stopped when the
temperature reached 50°C, as the gel forms during the cool-down process. This study consisted of a mixture experimental design (DoE) to evaluate the influence of the oil, dextrin palmitate and emulsifier concentrations on the product specifications. For the solid shampoo, the first step
consisted of weighing and heating both phases to 80°C. Then, the ‘surfactant’ phase (A) was slowly added to the oil phase under stirring from 800 to 1500 rpm with a deflocculator for 15 minutes. The product was poured into a silicone mold while it was still hot. Two formulas were compared with each
other: one with 12% candelilla wax and no dextrin palmitate thereafter called ‘Wax shampoo’, and the same formula with 7% wax substituted by dextrin palmitate called ‘DP shampoo’.
3. Instrumental measurement The various evaluations were performed 48 hours after formulation. The viscosity and rheological behaviour of the makeup remover gel were measured with an Anton Paar MCR301 rheometer, equipped with a rough plate/plate geometry 50mm, with a gap size of 1mm, at 20°C. A shear rate from 0.1 s-1 to 10 s-1 was applied to the product, allowing to measure the dynamic viscosity for a given shear rate. A texturometer TA Plus from Lloyd
Instruments was used for the texture study. In the case of the makeup remover gel, the hardness was measured with the first compression of a texture profile analysis (TPA) programme and a cylindrical probe of 5mm. For the solid shampoos, a single compression of 5mm was applied to the product with a spherical probe of 8mm. To compare the amount of foam produced
by shampoo the Ross-Miles test was adapted for the solid galenic. The Ross-Miles test is a static method, which consists of pouring foaming solution (200mL) from a defined height (90cm), in a measuring cylinder that already contains a part of the solution (50mL).3 The solution tested was obtained by
Wet the strand abundantly. Wet operator’s hands. Soak the solid shampoo in water ˜ 1 sec.
Place the shampoo in one hand and make 10 rotations on the shampoo with the other hand. Open your hands and take a picture - ‘Hand Foam 01”
Add ˜ 3mL of water and perform 10 rotations again. Open your hands and take a picture - “Hand foam 02”
Add ˜ 3mL of water on hands Descend along the strand in a zig-zag move with hands perpendicular to the strand x6 Take a picture of the strand - “Hand Foam 01”
Add 3mL of water on hands and repeat the same move x6 Take a picture of the strand - “Hand Foam 02”
Open your hands and take a picture - “Hand Foam 03” Rinse with successive volume of water of 100 mL. Note the number of volumes used - “Rinse off”
Figure 2: Solid shampoo – Protocol for the sensory evaluation of the foam volume on hair strand Formula with 2% DP ■ Formula with 8% DP■
10000 1000 100 10 1
0.1
1 Shear rate (1/s) Figure 3: Makeup remover gel - Flow curve of 2% and 8% LD dextrin palmitate
dissolving 10% w/w of solid shampoo in deionised water. The volume of foam produced by the fall of the solution was measured in the cylinder after one minute and three minutes.
4. Sensory studies The sensory properties of cosmetic products are performance factors that the consumer can judge. Many protocols have been standardized and published, but the development of new formulations requires innovation and the design of new protocols. This is the reason
why in this study, protocols on the perceived efficacy of the products were developed. In order to make a comparison between the
different formulation of the removal makeup gel efficiency, a 3cm line of lipstick was drawn on a petri dish and 0.5g of product was deposited on it. The number of rotations with the finger
required to remove the trace was counted. The lower the number of rotations, the more effective the formula. This protocol was repeated by six evaluators. For the solid shampoo, sensory evaluation
was based on the application of samples in hair strands. The appropriate methodology for evaluating the foam performance of solid shampoo at different stages of usage was developed in order to implement pictures (Figure 2). The protocol was repeated by five operators and the pictures were ranked by eight evaluators according to the volume of foam.
Figure 4: Makeup remover gel – Modelisation of the viscosity
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
Figure 5: Makeup remover gel – Modelisation of the hardness
Results 1. Makeup remover gel Cosmetics that remain on the face, especially makeup products, are made up with greasy ingredients and are therefore difficult to remove with hydrophilic cleansers. Consequently, the production of oil-based makeup removers is necessary for the proper removal of these cosmetics.
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Viscosity (P.a.s)
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