Volume 24 Issue 1
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 11 News
61 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 19 Interview: Dr Katerina
Steventon Editor Tim Probert discusses the future of skin care with Dr Katerina Steventon, a Czech skin scientist, consultant, practitioner, brand owner and scientific programme director of the recent 8th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference in London
23 Roles of dextrin palmitate in
waterless formulating École de Biologie Industrielle et al explain why dextrin palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas for developing waterless cleansing cosmetic products
29 The whys and wherefores of
waterless formulating Jessica Dynda of US personal ingredient supplier Koster Keunen takes a comprehensive look at the opportunities and challenges of developing solid format products and what it takes to formulate reliable and stable products successfully
33 Bioactive peptides for hair
restructuring and hair plex Italian cosmetic active producer Kalichem explains how bioactive peptides represent an ideal solution to promote plex, restructuring, hydration, combing improvement, volumising, detangling, antistatic, conditioning, and luminosity effects in hair care
39 Scalp soothing properties of
Portulaca oleracea Vitalab’s scientists have harnessed the power of the medicinal plant Portulaca oleracea to develop a multifunctional ingredient offering improved cellular ability to scavenge free radicals, while reducing the release of pro-inflammatory messengers, helping to relieve sensitive-prone skin and scalp
47 Second skin technology for
pollution protection The need for year-round skin protection to support our skin against dehydration and external aggressors has inspired BASF to create a biodegradable alternative to polymer film formers that highly resembles human skin and offers all-around care
53 The anti-ageing effects of
2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation has developed the world’s first cosmetic ingredient containing 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH), under the trade name Repista. This article describes the cellular activation effects of the AOH active ingredient on normal human epidermal keratinocytes
57 Why cosmetics compliance is
due a digital makeover Kallik explains why cosmetics firms can establish truly end-to-end digital operations for managing all global assets in a single, secure cloud-based repository, offering compliance, consistency, and reliability. This also removes the risk of future product updates and developments, which not only cost financially but also cost in terms of time-to-market and competitiveness
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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Cargill
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January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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