HAIR CARE


Scalp soothing properties ofPortulaca oleracea


Claudia Zappelli – Vitalab Annalisa Tito, Marida Bimonte, Antonio Colantuono – Arterra Bioscience


ABSTRACT


Sensitive scalp is an extension of the concept of sensitive facial skin, and is associated with dry skin, reactivity to climatic/environmental factors, and topical agents. Vitalab’s scientists have harnessed the power of the medicinal plant Portulaca oleracea, developing an ingredient clinically tested for its efficacy to soothe the skin, reduce the perception of itch intensity for both skin and scalp, and restore the skin barrier function. The multifunctional ingredient improved cellular ability to scavenge free radicals, while reducing the release of pro-inflammatory messengers, helping to relieve sensitive-prone skin and scalp.


The skin provides a vital barrier structure that protects us against exogenous environmental stressors that can be physical, in the form of UV light, wind, and thermal seasonal changes, or chemicals, such as atmospheric pollutants and pesticides. The efficacy of the skin barrier function is determined by several characteristics, which include the stratum corneum lipid structure, the quality of the epidermal cells and their interaction with the dermal compartment, and the immune system.1 Owing to a drastic increase in global pollution, excessive or inappropriate use of personal care products, and psychological impacts due to the COVID-19 pandemic, recognition of, and attention to, prevalence of skin susceptibility have been steadily increasing.2,3


The main features mainly include


sensorial manifestations such as burning, tingling, stinging, prickling, and itching,4 which impact overall life quality. Moreover, more vulnerable skin may indicate that you’re dealing with an underlying condition like atopic or contact dermatitis. From a histological point of view, an


impaired skin barrier function, with an impact on skin hydration state, has been considered a typical hallmark of irritated and sensitive skin. A compromised skin barrier allows the transcutaneous penetration of potential contaminants or irritants, resulting in enhanced immune responsiveness, a significant rise in reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and heightened vascular neurosensory stimulation. An increase in the release of interleukin (IL)-1,


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IL-6, IL-8, prostaglandin (PG) E2, and tumour necrosis factor-a (alpha symbol) (TNF-a(alpha symbol) has been described by Willis et al.5,6 Sensitive and hyper-reactive skin is


not limited to the face, and recent studies demonstrated that irritable skin could occur also on the scalp, hands, and feet. The sensitive scalp is an extension of the concept of sensitive skin, and it is accompanied by a reduction of tissue hydration, bothersome itch, flaking, tightness, and a burning sensation.3 The prevalence of scalp itchiness in previous literature ranges from 13 to 45%, and ethnic variations are reported. A survey study among the French population reported that more than 40% suffer from scalp sensitivity.7


Control ■ Retinoic Acid 1 µM ■ Portulaca Vita 0.002% ■ +40%


180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0


+26% * **


** *** To manage cutaneous irritation, consumers


continuously seek natural ingredients with proven efficacy. Moreover, the ‘skinification’ trend reveals the high demand for botanicals that combine skin care with hair care, and which are proven to soothe the skin, reduce the perception of itch intensity and dryness, thus improving both skin and scalp health.


The perks of Portulaca oleracea Portulaca oleracea, or common purslane, is an annual grassy plant with succulent leaves, small yellow or white flowers and small black seeds. Also known as little hogweed or parsley, and listed as one of the most useful medicinal plants, the medicinal uses of Portulaca have extensive records in both folkloric and scientific literature.8 Many bioactive compounds have been


isolated from purslane and include flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, and organic acids as well as other classes of natural compounds, including fatty acids, polysaccharides, vitamins, sterols, proteins, and minerals.9 Therefore, Portulaca extract may hold


AQP3 HAS3


Figure 1: Effect of Portulaca Vita on Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and Hyaluronan synthases 3 (HAS3) gene expression


great potential as a candidate ingredient intended to protect, soothe, and relieve sensitive-prone skin and scalp. The results of our study indicate that Portulaca extract exerts a significant soothing effect against skin inflammation and itching induced by different insults in keratinocytes, including UV radiation, oxidative stress, or lipopolysaccharide (LPS). Furthermore, we have found Portulaca


extract is effective in increasing the expression January 2023 PERSONAL CARE


39


Gene expression level (% to control - 100%)


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