30 WATERLESS FORMULATION
compostable, breathable and minimalist options. By creating personal care products in non- plastic packaging, we can support our ecosystem and reduce the pollution in our fresh water.
2. Condensed formulation The second formula type is known as a condensed or concentrated formula. These products may have low levels of water in them or need water to use them. They can also be anhydrous systems where less product is needed because of the concentration levels. In any case, the consumer has control over their water consumption. An example is a concentrated hair
conditioner, where the consumer adds the amount of water based on the conditioning level they require. Another option is an anhydrous lotion bar (Table 1) with no water in the formula, allowing for a fully concentrated option. Concentrated formulas can be offered
with reduced water or anhydrous allowing the consumer to use it at their preferred concentration level or dilute for their needs. Formulators can design products where the consumer can choose to add water or not, giving people options. Looking for some inspiration yourself?
Swap your liquid face wash to an anhydrous cleansing bar or powder.
Fill your sink with
a little water to wet your hands and face. By stopping the water from running, you immediately reduce your consumption. Take all the time you want to wash your face and rinse with the water in the sink. Water protection will continue to be a part
of our lives and the personal care industry can have an impact.
3. Comprehensive water reduction Highly eco-conscious consumers will be interested in products that support the environment and reduce water usage.9
This is a cumulative look at
the entire process of the product starting with the manufacturing of the raw materials, to the use and packaging of the product, all the way to the effect of the water supply and the environment. From a formulator perspective, looking at
suppliers who have a water conservation plan, use recycled water, or use no water at all will benefit everyone. Wax chemistry is one of the raw materials that is not processed with water.
TABLE 3: THE BALM FACE CLEANSER FORMULATION Phase Ingredients A
INCI
Kostol Natural E Cera Bellina Orange Wax
Kester Wax K-82P Syneth C15K Sunflower Oil
Jojoba Oil Golden Avocado Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orange) Peel Wax C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Meadowfoam Seed Oil Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil Vitamin E Acetate Linatural NLP-O
Tocopheryl Acetate Orange / Lemon Grass / Sesame Oils Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2: Lonza 3. Maroon Group 4. Brenntag Specialties 5. Natural Plant Products 6. DSM
■ CCT ■ Octyl Palmitate
350.0 300.0 250.0 200.0 150.0
100.0 50.0 0.0
0 5 Figure 3: Beeswax gel strength
Companies like Koster Keunen not only have a sustainability plan and use green energy provided by their solar field, but also produce their raw materials without water.10 By choosing ingredients that support people
and ecosystems, like a sustainable version of beeswax,11
you add additional layers of
environmental support to the final product. Formulas in this category should be safe for people and oceans, reduce overall waste with packaging options and offer the consumer a way to use it without much water consumption: the highest standard across all platforms.
Creating waterless formulations Creating a waterless formula will have a different approach to standard emulsion chemistry. Depending on the format, chemists will need to think about additional factors based on what they are creating. The first two things to consider are the packaging and how the product will be used. Creating a hair product that will typically
remain in the shower? If the product will be packaged in a wide mouth jar, chemists should consider if water might be left behind by wet hands obtaining the product, leading to potential mold growth. This can be eliminated changing the package type. Creating a shampoo bar that is unwrapped and left exposed in the shower? How many uses
Supplier % w/w 1 1 1 1
15.0 6.0 5.0 7.0
3 2 3 4 5 6 3
10.0 39.0 9.0 3.0 3.0 1.5 1.5
Procedure:Mix and melt all ingredients one at a time with moderate mixing. • Keep temperature at 85 °C or under. • Once blend is completely homogeneous, cool to 75 °C and pour into pots.
is the bar expected to have? How much loss is there, how fast does it dissolve in the elevated temperature and humidity of the shower? The overall structure and melt point of a shower bar needs to be considered for both stability and usage. Consider this waterless shave stick formula in Table 2. It can be packaged as a bar or in a push-up/twist-up type of package. Consumers can leave the bar in their bathroom or take the packaged version on a trip without leaking concerns. The second obstacle of waterless formulation
is the stability of the formula. There are two format types that are the most challenging. The first form is the bar. When creating a
structure for an anhydrous bar, consider what would happen if the consumer dropped it on the floor in the aisle of the shop. Does it crack? Does it shatter? If this happens, its unlikely the consumer will purchase it. Solid format products should pass both a drop
test and shipping test as part of stability testing. One of the best ways to create structure and strengthen your formula is with wax chemistry. A key factor in creating good structure includes the compatibility and solubility of the wax and the main liquid medium. Consider the work done by the Koster Keunen technical team on gel strengths.12
They have
created a series of gel strength charts where the wax, like beeswax shown in Figure 3, is tested in a variety of different oil mediums showing the gel strength in a graph format. For a formulator, these graphs provide base information and reduce lab bench time. Ultimately, the strength of your gel will
determine the overall stability of the formula. If the product is designed for multiple uses, but melts too quickly, the user will feel they did not get their money’s worth. If it melts too slowly, the product will not be repurchased in a timely manner. The other challenging format in the waterless
realm is the textured, anhydrous balm. Smooth, anhydrous balms not only need to be heat stable, but the chemist must eliminate crystallization and confirm the product can be scaled up into manufacturing. Successfully formulating these types of
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com 10 Beeswax % 15 20 25
■ Semtol ■ Castor
■ Sunflower ■ Polybutene H-100
■ Jojoba Oil
Penetration (dmm)
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