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WATERLESS FORMULATION


products relies on three factors: a wide melt point range, flexible ingredients, and proper processing. Wax chemistries are a perfect fit for an anhydrous system both in bar and balm versions. Very often, it is the percentage of wax that can


transition a bar to a balm without reformulating entirely. Raw materials with a wide melt point range allow for stability during phase changes. Chemistries that are flexible, known as plasticizers help the overall deposition of the product as well as the stability. Options like C18-36 Hydroxystearoyl Stearate,


Beeswax and Microcrystalline fit both categories. The anhydrous face cleanser in Table 4 is an example of a product that is supported by different types of waxes and polymers to achieve a specific texture. Whether it is a stick, a balm, an ointment, or a bar: wax chemistry will lend stability to the system, support thermal challenges, and keep textures consistent. Lastly, we should discuss preservation. It is


here chemists should remember how the product will be used in order to protect the user. There is a perspective that if there is no water in a system, a preservative is not required. Preservation is something to examine for a multitude of reasons.13 Consider the oxidation of oils in an anhydrous


system and how preservation will stop rancidity. Formulas that will reside in a humid and wet environment should be preserved, as should formulas where a user scoops the product out with their hands. In all cases, microbiological testing can support different formulas ensuring the right choice is made.


Conclusion The discussion of waterless products started in 2015 and conservation has become more vital as water scarcity continues around the globe.14 In every region, people are being more mindful about how they affect the planet. Consumers are looking for ways to be more


environmentally conscious and want products that will help them do that.15


market can have a significant impact on water reduction and conservation.16 Waterless products open opportunities


for brands to show consumers how they think about their water consumption. It also opens a market segment for growth with brands to show they want to be a part of a better tomorrow. Ultimately, we all need to do our part to bring awareness to this issue.


The personal care


what needs to be done. 12 August 2022. https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2022/08/ drought-water-climate-un/


4. August 2022 Drought Report. US National Centers for Environmental Information. https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/ monitoring/monthly-report/drought/202208


5. Natural Resources Defense Council. Drought: Everything You Need to Know. September 2018. https://www.nrdc.org/ stories/drought-everything-you-need- know?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlZfGpZbH- gIVEW1vBB0uJQEnEAAYASAAEgJb7vD_BwE


6. United Nations. Act Now. https://www.un.org/ actnow


7. National Geographic. Plastic gets to the oceans through over 1,000 rivers. April 2021. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/ environment/article/plastic-gets-to-oceans- through-over-1000-rivers


8. The Watershed Institute. How Does Plastic Pollution Harm Water? May 2019. https:// thewatershed.org/how-does-plastic-


pollution-harm-water/


9. Mintel. www.mintel.com 10. Koster Keunen. The Koster Keunen Global Sustainability Program. https://www. kosterkeunen.com/sustainability/


11. Koster Keunen. Collaborations with USAID. https://www.kosterkeunen.com/ collaborations-with-usaid-post/


12. Koster Keunen. Personal Care. https://www. kosterkeunen.com/industries/personal-care/


13. 18c by Acme-Hardesty. The Importance Of Preservatives In Personal Care Products. September 2021. https://www.ah18c.com/ en-us/news/importance-of-preservatives-in- personal-care-products


14. Into The Gloss. The Waterless Skincare Routine. https://intothegloss.com/2015/06/ waterless-skin-care/


15. Mintel. www.mintel.com 16. Vogue. Waterless Beauty Can Help Save The Planet, And Your Skin. August 2020. https:// www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/article/waterless- beauty


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References 1. Daily Sabah. Warning of doom: ‘Hunger stones’ surface in drought-stricken waters. 18 August 2022. https://www.dailysabah.com/life/ warning-of-doom-hunger-stones-surface-in- drought-stricken-waters/news


2. Le Monde. ‘Hunger stones’ resurface across Europe as a warning from droughts past. 20 August 2022. https://www.lemonde.fr/en/ environment/article/2022/08/20/hunger- stones-resurface-across-europe-as-a- warning-from-droughts-past_5994193_114. html#:~:text=The%20footage%20below%20 was%20recorded,marked%20by%20 similar%20climate%20conditions.


3. World Economic Forum. Droughts are getting worse around the world, here’s why and


www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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