ANTI-AGEING
Second skin technology for pollution protection
Hannah Cwienkala, Diane Tom, Nicole Paraszczuk - BASF
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Hectic lifestyles and air pollution are two major sources of skin stress that urban dwellers experience quite often, and that continue to become more prevalent around the globe. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), only one in ten people lives in a city that meets WHO safety limits for air quality.1 While the effects of pollution may not be
visible on our skin, an increasing number of studies show that its impact may be more than meets the eye. Recent studies indicate that pollutants cause or contribute to everything from aesthetic changes to alterations on a deeper level, including ageing effects such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.2 As consumers worldwide connect the dots
between pollution and the deterioration they observe in their skin’s appearance, brands are quickly adapting to the rising demand for new anti-pollution products with multifunctional benefits. Consumers have raised their expectations
to include more unique, healthy skin benefits such as protection from external aggressors, tested on sensitive skin, and other barrier enhancement benefits. Between 2017 and 2021, the number of skincare products launched in the US, Canada and Mexico with ‘protects against elements’ claims increased by 62% and ‘for sensitive skin” by 25%.3 Consumers are looking for more than just efficacy, requesting products that offer comfort,
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unique sensorial experiences, and better sustainability in addition to protection. Responding to these market needs, BASF
has developed a biodegradable, breathable polymer alternative that mimics the skin’s lipid particles to form a protective film: Mimiskin™ (INCI: Myristyl Myristate (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate), hereafter known as the second skin film former. The key benefits of this second skin film
former are multi-faceted and include holistic skin protection and healthy skin benefits. A key differentiator is that the film formed by this product is breathable, allowing water and air particles to pass through the film while keeping out pollution particles, which tend to be larger. The robust ingredient data includes anti-adhesion of surface pollutants, anti- chemical penetration, and ease of cleansing and removability of pollutants. These effects were evaluated in a series of
in vitro and in vivo tests. Incorporated at 5% in a formulation, this ingredient shows reduced dust adhesion when evaluated using SiO2 dust particles as PM10 pollutants. Franz cell permeability studies also show significantly reduced chemical penetration compared to formulations without the second skin film former and with a benchmark. Finally, cleansing and removability of
ABSTRACT
The need for year-round skin protection to support our skin against dehydration and external aggressors has inspired BASF to create a solution which offers breathable protection by employing state-of-the- art technologies inspired by nature. The biodegradable alternative to polymer film formers, Mimiskin™, highly resembles human skin and offers all-around care as a skin protector. With its unique melting-point shifting behaviour, it forms a breathable lipid film on the skin, preserving moisture, enhancing complexion, and providing a multi-faceted approach to anti-pollution protection. Mimiskin has been proven to protect skin by reducing the adhesion of pollutant particles, decreasing the penetration of harmful substances into the skin, and enhancing the rinse-off of pollutant particles from the skin.
surface pollutants was evaluated on the volar forearms of volunteers by how much charcoal remained after rinsing with water. These studies support a multi-pronged approach to anti-pollution using the second skin film former, which is applicable in facial creams, serums, mists, and primers to address today’s beauty trends.
January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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