COVER STORY: CARGILL ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
7
Naturally derived emollient as a silicone alternative
Floramac® 10 (INCI: Ethyl Macadamiate) is a moisturizing mix of macadamia esters offering a soft, silky after-feel comparable to leading market silicones. This non-greasy, light ester is derived from macadamia oil, which is a desirable plant source due to its sustainability profile. The macadamia plant is promoted as an alternative crop to small farmers in developing regions of the world since it has a relatively low input requirement, and it can continue to yield seeds for decades.1,2 It can consequently provide crops for a variety
of industries and allow growers to maximize the benefits of the land while having minimal impact compared to other crops. Mimicking the skin feel of silicone coupled with a natural origin of 99.95%, Floramac 10 is answering a market need to formulate more sustainably. ‘Silicone-free’ claims continue to grow year
after year as consumers seek more naturally derived ingredients. Brands are continually looking for silicone alternatives to increase naturality without sacrificing performance. New data on Floramac 10 demonstrates that
sensory can be matched and moisturization can be surpassed compared to dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, two commonly used silicones in personal care products. Floramac 10 also provides more moisturization than most other silicone alternatives. Its stability and high compatibility with other
ingredients gives Floramac 10 advantages over other silicone alternatives allowing formulators to reduce or replace silicones entirely. Performing well in all categories including skin, hair, makeup and sun care, this versatile emollient provides
■ Floramac 10 ■ Dimethicone 5cst Smoothness* Product pick up Greasiness
5 4 3 2 1
0 Stickiness / Trackiness Skin Afte-Feel (immediate) Gloss Absorbency
*p<0.10 **p<0.05
Less Figure 1: Floramac 10 vs. dimethicone 5 cst
www.personalcaremagazine.com More Figure 2: Floramac 10 vs. cyclopentasiloxane January 2023 PERSONAL CARE Less Greasiness Gloss** Absorbency**
*p<0.10 **p<0.05
More Slip Product Rub Out Stickiness / Trackiness Greasiness* Cushiony
The whys and wherefores of waterless formulating
Interview: Skin care expert Katerina Stevenson
In focus: Waterless, Hair care, Anti-ageing
multifunctional benefits of sensory and hydration from a plant-based source.
Matching the sensory profile of silicones Initial evaluations of the neat ingredients were made using sensory studies comparing Floramac 10 to dimethicone 5cst and cyclopentasiloxane. Female consumers (n=24 and n=27, respectively) evaluated the neat materials on a 1-5 scale for attributes related to product pick, product rub-out on the skin,
■ Floramac 10 ■ Dimethicone 5cst Smoothness** Product pick up Stickiness / Tackiness Spreadability Slip* Skin Afte-Feel (30 minute)
5 4 3 2 1
0 Spreadability January 2023 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
and the skin after-feel (at the notated time points). The higher the score, the more the listed attribute was perceived by the consumers. Figure 1 shows Floramac 10 and dimethicone
5cst have very similar product pickup, product rub out, and immediate skin after-feel, with the only directionally significant (p<0.10) difference being that Floramac 10 resulted in smoother skin.
Figure 2 shows Floramac 10 was also fairly
similar to cyclopentasiloxane as perceived by consumers. Although the Floramac 10 was less absorbent (p<0.05) and a little greasier (p<0.10) during product rub out, the resulting skin feel 30 minutes after application was similar. Floramac 10 resulted in smoother and glossier skin, however there was similar stickiness / tackiness, and slip provided to the skin. Additional evaluations of slip and spread
were also made via in-vitro analysis. Slip refers to the angle in degrees from vertical at which a standard weight, lubricated by the test emollient, will begin to slide on an inclined plane. Spread refers to the portion, as a percentage of standard P5 filter paper, over which 20 drops of the test emollient will spread in ten minutes. Larger values represent higher amounts for both slip and spread. The ultimate skin feel of a silicone can partially be attributed to its slip and spread profile. As Figure 3 demonstrates, the results for
slip for Floramac 10 versus dimethicone 5cst and cyclopentasiloxane are very similar to the results seen by consumers. Floramac 10, in addition to the other silicone alternatives
Wetness Product Rub Out
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68
