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NEWS


APAC demand for colour cosmetic ingredients to surge - Kline


Volume growth in colour cosmetic ingredients in the Asia-Pacific region is expected to grow more than twice as fast than the average growth rate of all ingredient groups, according to market analysts Kline. Speaking at in-cosmetics Asia


2022, Asia-Pacific and Middle East business development manager Pierre Zolghadri said the pandemic had significantly impacted demand for colour cosmetics in the region, losing around 5% market share between 2018 and 2021 due to lockdowns and other restrictions to contain the spread of Covid-19. However, the easing of


restrictions is expected to lead to strong growth in colour cosmetics, as well as sun care products. Zolghadri forecasts the volume


growth in Asia-Pacific of colour cosmetic ingredients to grow by almost 12% between 2021 and 2026, considerably higher than the 4.6% average for all personal care ingredients. Above-average growth is also


expected for emollients, emulsifiers, UV protection ingredients and surfactants, while rheology control agents and conditioning polymers are expected to be close to average. Growth in solvents and hair


fixatives expected to fall short of the around 4% average growth. Zolghadri said the pandemic has


changed certain lifestyle habits such as more frequent handwashing and a higher importance placed on sanitization.


This trend is expected to


continue post-pandemic and drive growth in anti-microbial soaps, wipes and hand sanitizers. Another key trend is the drive


towards natural and sustainable ingredients. This is arising not only from increasing regulation that imposes limitations in use but also advertising campaigns and bad press about some traditional preservatives such as parabens and isothiazolinones. “This is triggering their substitution toward ingredients that are considered milder, safer and natural,” said Zolghadri. This trend is also leading to a


shift away from animal-derived ingredients such as animal proteins. For conditioning polymers, for


example, the industry is expected to continue favour the use of ingredients such as guar, cassia gum and proteins. Zolghadi said


polyquaterniums are also under scrutiny as they are synthetic. Another post-pandemic trend


identified by the Kline analyst is consumers having a changed relationship with makeup products, with many stopping applying them on a daily basis. Instead, a new generation of skin


care and makeup products, which provide facial benefits and colour effects in one step is expected to grow. In addition, this trend will lead


to lower formulation costs, driving the demand for multifunctional ingredients. Elsewhere, Zolghadri expects


growing demand for ingredients used in anti-ageing products in Asia-Pacific, especially in ageing societies such as Japan. Kline also sees a shift towards


local suppliers being another impact of Covid-19 due to difficulties with


importing ingredients during the pandemic. This, says Zolghadri, has opened an opportunity for local suppliers in countries such as India to offer ingredients to formulators. As shipping remains affected and is further accentuated by high costs due to the recent rise in energy prices, this shift towards local suppliers in various markets is expected to continue. Lastly, the Kline analyst sees a rise


of direct-to-consumer companies in markets such as India, leading to the growth of private-label brands in the personal care industry. In India, these include Nykaa, Purplle, MyGlamm, Forest Essentials and Mama Earth. This, in turn, is leading to a faster


adoption of trends such as increasing preferences of natural, cruelty-free and vegan products along with the emergence of customized personal care products.


Mibelle Biochemistry takes actives gold at in-cos Asia


Mibelle Biochemistry won the active ingredient gold award at the 2022 in-cosmetics Asia trade show in Bangkok, Thailand. The Swiss firm took the prize for


its plant-based retinol alternative NovoRetin, an aromatic resin from tree bark that grows on the Greek island of Chios. It is said to increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, which leads to retinol-like effects. Meanwhile, Vytrus Biotech


took silver for its Elaya Renova 100% natural active for hair and scalp care.


PERSONAL CARE January 2023 BASF and Cellicon Lab shared


the bronze award, the former for its healthy ageing Postbiolift postbiotic technology, the latter was recognised for DST-DX, a targeted skin-lightener. Elsewhere, Ashland Singapore won gold in the functional


ingredient award for its Antaron soja glyceride. The silver award was shared


by Global Bioenergies and Sharon Laboratories; the former for its Isonaturane 12 naturally sourced isododecane product, the latter for its Sharomix 99 broad-spectrum preservative blend. The bronze functional ingredient


award was also shared. Hallstar was recognised for its SolaPure Glo natural multifunctional emollient that improves sun protection performance. The other bronze award


went to Jan Dekker for its natural derived cellulose-based emulsifier, Dekamulen Power’Feel. Elsewhere at in-cosmetics


Asia, the formulation award gold was won by DKSH Performance Materials (Thailand) for Baby One More Time Face cleanser powder. The formulation award silver


was won by Innovacos for Cleaning Oil to Milk with PolyAquol-2W. Evonik (Thailand) took


the bronze for Winter Time Regeneration Lotion-Vitamin D3 (MM 432/4) with TEGO Sterol 7-DHC V.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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