36 HAIR CARE Increased delivery of bio-available sulphur
content detected after EDX microanalysis; in detail, the Kerashaft treatment showed an average of +325% sulphur found on the shaft. Hydrolyzed keratin treated hair showed overall amounts of 5.6% in weight of sulphur, while Kerashaft treatment increased hair sulphur content up to 21.4%. Increased hair shaft hydrophobic character, using as indicator the overall carbon atom content. The treatment showed a carbon content increase by 16% versus keratin.
Resistance to traction and combing The leave-on treatment with Kerashaft V @ 1.5% showed consistent improvements of the firmness of the hair compared to a phyto-keratin treatment, according to the following data: Increased resistance to breakage: the treated
hair resists tensile stress for a more extended period than benchmark treated strands (ten seconds more, + 37%). Increased resistance to traction: the treated
hair reported +64% breakage force load. Improvement of hair combability. Treated
hair opposes less resistance to the passage of the comb (-37%) than phyto-keratin treatment.
Moisturising and volumising action Kerashaft V @ 5% treated hair loses more mass than the benchmark keratin treated hair after exposure to infrared heat when compared to the mass recorded immediately. The values shown in Figure 5 suggest its higher imbibition power, swelling and hydration potential. Complementary analysis calculating relative humidity loss through thermobalance (data not shown, available on demand) confirm the activity pattern. Additional studies made after a rinse-off
treatment based on a shampoo containing Kerashaft V @ 1.5% compared to virgin hair proved volumising increase by 17% for single hair units average diameter, and +10% for hair tresses average diameter.
Kerashaft Q Hair detangling and restructuring features following a leave-on treatment @ 5% were assessed, respectively, through SEM and PLM analysis (Figure 6). SEM images show the full
Weight (t0) ■ Weight (t1) ■
0.07 0.06 0.05 0.04 0.03 0.02 0.01 0
Kerashaft V Benchmark Keratin
Figure 5: Hair weight calculation by IR thermobalance between keratin verus Kerashaft V leave-on treatments
closure of cuticles all over the shaft longitudinal surface.
PLM images show its refined plex and
restructuring effect, linked to an average increased delivery of sulphur by 49.2% when compared to hydrolyzed keratin treatments (with a load of sulphur detected of 8.1%, compared to the 5.6% recorded by keratin). The active also improved hair luminosity
after a leave-on treatment followed by straightening. The luminous effect recorded is represented by a Δ of the colorimeter L* value of + 4.3 compared to the lower value of 0.4 induced by the treatment with hydrolyzed keratin.
Conclusion In light of the scientific objectification described, Kerashaft bioactive peptides represent an ideal solution to promote plex, restructuring, hydration, combing improvement, volumising (Kerashaft V), detangling, antistatic, conditioning, and luminosity effects (Kerashaft Q).
These specific features reflect the capability
of both the actives analyzed to deeply nourish and repair the damaged hair shaft thanks to their increased delivery of sulphur (enabling to re-establish disulfide bonds all over the hair inner structure) and the modulation of the global polarity of the hair amino-acidic content, bringing it to homeostatic values. The hydro-soluble nature of these products
makes them suitable for multiple applications (including shampoo, conditioners, masks, gels, serums, lotions, thermal hair protectors etc.) for daily home treatments, salon professional treatments (split end repair, plex, anti-frizz, Brazilian keratin, lamination and hair gloss treatments) and healing cosmeceutical products (post-bleaching, post-dye, post-perm, etc).
References 1. Evans T, Wickett RR. (2012). Practical Modern Hair Science. Allured Business Media, Carol Stream, IL USA
2. Yu J, Yu DW, Checkla DM, Freedberg IM, Bertolino AP. (1993). Human hair keratins. J. Invest. Dermatol. 101 (1 Suppl) 56S-59S
3. Cruz C, Costa C, Gomes A, Matamá T, Cavaco-Paulo A. (2016). Human hair and the impact of cosmetic procedures: A review on cleansing and shape-modulating cosmetics. Cosmetics. 3(3) 26
4. Feughelman M. Physical Properties of the Hair, in: Johnson, D.H. (Eds.). Hair and Hair Care, Marcel Dekker, New York, USA, 1997, pp. 21-24
5. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg, Germany, 2012, 5th Edition, pp. 540-559
Figure 6: SEM + PLM images: Kerashaft Q activity pattern Kerashaft Q @ 5%
PERSONAL CARE January 2023 Kerashaft Q @ 5%
6. Robbins CR. (2012). Chemical composition of different hair types. In: Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg 105-176
7. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. Int. J. Trichology. 7(1) 2-15
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Single Hair Weight (g)
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