WATERLESS FORMULATION


23


Roles of dextrin palmitate in waterless formulating


Marion Geoffroy, Marc Lavarde - École de Biologie Industrielle Javier Arrieta, Pascal Plejewski – Inabata France Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier - FRM GaleSens


Dextrin Palmitate (CAS number 83271-10-7) is an organic compound derived from dextrin and obtained by esterification with palmitic acid. This product is commercially available


in the form of a fine white powder, and it is used as a thickener and consistency agent to improve the spreadability and the texture of a variety of solid and semi-solid cosmetics, such as lip gloss, mascaras, cleansing and massage products, hair conditioners, skin creams, and sunscreens to name a few. The thickening and consistency properties of the dextrin palmitate will mainly depend on the degree of residue in the dextrin ring (Figure 1).1 Developing waterless cleansing cosmetic


products is one of the eco-friendly initiatives towards a more sustainable innovation in the cosmetic industry. Solid cosmetics are indeed connected to changes in consumption habits of consumers who want to be implicated in the protection of the planet and consequently consume less products and packaging. Solid shampoos, for example, claim a three


times longer usage than liquid shampoos and require no plastic packaging. To better understand the formulation of these products, knowledge of the behaviour of thickening agents such as dextrin palmitate is an essential prerequisite. Nowadays, the compatibility of dextrin


palmitate with simple oil phases as well as the minimum concentrations to gelify these media is well known.2


On the other hand,


there is little or no study on the behaviour of dextrin palmitate in more complex formulas. To effectively address such a complex issue, two formulations were developed: a makeup remover, in the form of a water/oil emulsion with little water content, and a solid shampoo.


OR O H O RO OH OR n wherein R is the residue of palmitic acid Figure 1: Dextrin palmitate structure www.personalcaremagazine.com


TABLE 1: MAKEUP REMOVER GEL FORMULA Phase A


Ingredients


Sweet Almond Oil LDXP


A2 B


Surfhope C1216 Deionised Water Glycerin


Suppliers: 1. Cooper 2. Inabata France 3. Gattefossé INCI


Prunus amyadalus dulcis oil Dextrin palmitate


Sucrose laurate & Sucrose palmitate Aqua


Glycerin 4. EBI


TABLE 2: SOLID SHAMPOO FORMULA Phase A1


Ingredients


Pureact WS Conc Iselux


Plantacare 818 UP Pureact 138


A2 Glycerin B


Corn Starch Lanette 16 Cetiol A


Sweet Almond Oil Candelilla Wax HDXP-KL


INCI Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate


Sodium Lauryoyl Methyl Isethionate Coco glucoside


Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Glycerin


Corn starch Cetyl alcool


Hexyl Laurate


Prunus amyadalus dulcis oil Canelilla cera


Dextrin palmitate Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Cooper 3. BASF 4. Kahlwax 5. Inabata France


Materials and methods 1. Formula The use of dextrin palmitate in formulation was studied in two different galenics: a makeup remover gel (W/O) and a solid shampoo, presented Table 1 and 2, respectively. The type of dextrin palmitate was adapted to the product. Firstly, the low-density dextrin palmitate (LD dextrin palmitate) for the gel, and then


the high-density dextrin palmitate (HD dextrin palmitate) for the solid formulation.


2. Process of formulation For the makeup remover gel, the dextrin palmitate must first be pre-dispersed at around 90°C in the oil (phase A1). Then, Phase A1 was cooled to 75°C and A2 was added. Phase B was weighted and brought to the same temperature (75°C). The water phase was


January 2023 PERSONAL CARE


Suppliers 1


2 3 4 1


% w/w


60 to 70 2 to 8 3 to 7 17 8


Suppliers 1 1 1 1


2 2 3 3 2 4 5


% w/w 10


20 10 10 7 5


20 5 1


5 or 12 0 or 7


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