WATERLESS FORMULATION In this study, it was decided to develop
a water-in-oil gel formula in order to facilitate the cleansing and the rinsability. The objective was to understand the effect of the low-density = LD dextrin palmitate on the texture and performance of the makeup remover jelly. The experimental design technique is an
excellent way to obtain quality information about factors that affect the properties of a formula. A mixture experimental design was carried out in this study to understand the influence of the concentration of LD dextrin palmitate on the features of the makeup remover gel.
The modelisation of the effects is
illustrated by a ternary diagram in which the two-dimension response surface curves provide a visual interpretation of the interaction between the ingredients. Each red dot represents one experiment of the mixture experimental design. As an example, the three dots at the top
of the parallelogram correspond to the three experiments with the highest content of LD dextrin palmitate (8%). The further the dots from a vertex, the lowest the quantity of the ingredient. The colour gradient represents the prediction of viscosity or hardness for one mixture. To illustrate the effect of LD dextrin
palmitate, the viscosity curve of two trials of the mixture experimental design is presented in Figure 3, one with 2% LD dextrin palmitate and the other with 8% LD dextrin palmitate. As with most cosmetic formulations,
the two formulas have a shear thinning behaviour. The viscosity with 8% LD dextrin palmitate is at least 10 times above the one with 2% LD dextrin palmitate regardless of the shear gradient. This effect is well illustrated in the ternary diagram (Figure 4), where a wide variety of formulas from liquid to gel was observed. From 3% of LD dextrin palmitate, the
viscosity is around 100 Pa.s which results in an emulsion that is more consistent. Above a threshold of 6% of LD dextrin palmitate, the formula has the texture of a balm. Therefore, to obtain the gel galenic with this chassis, the concentration of LD dextrin palmitate should be between these two values. Moreover, a second-order effect of
sucrose laurate/palmitate (SLP) is observed, meaning that a trade-off between LD dextrin palmitate and SLP should be found to optimise the mixture. We observed that the hardness
significatively increases with the amount of LD dextrin palmitate (Figure 5). Logically, the proportion of Sweet Almond Oil (SAO) is negatively correlated to this parameter as a high amount of oil result in less quantity of functional ingredients. The SLP has no effect on hardness. The gelling performance is therefore only generated by the presence of LD dextrin palmitate in the formula. The modelisation by experimental design
allowed to optimize the formula to reach the targets of viscosity and hardness of a benchmark from the market.
www.personalcaremagazine.com 4. After a wipe Figure 6: Sensory Evaluation of the makeup removing performance January 2023 PERSONAL CARE 2. Remover + 3 rotations 1. Lipstick line Market Benchmark
25 Make Up Remover Gel Dextrin Palmitate
3. After 5 rotations
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