HAIR CARE A B
41
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Untreated
***
-58% ***
200 150 100 50 0
LPS 1µg/ml
Portulaca Vita 0.002%
Untreated LPS 1µg/ml
-60% *
Portulaca Vita 0.002%
Figure 4: Preventive effect of Portulaca Vita on histamine synthesis (A) and release (B) in LPS-stimulated immune cells
increased in a concentration-dependent fashion the gene expression of both catalase (CAT) and superoxide dismutase-2 (SOD2), the first-line defence antioxidant enzymes (Figure 2A). Thanks to Portulaca olearacea extract
treatment, skin cells significantly increased antioxidant enzyme availability, thus, effectively strengthening the indispensable defence strategy machinery for more resilient skin and scalp. Portulaca olearacea extract was also effective as an antioxidant. Indeed, the extract reduced mitochondrial H2
O2 -induced ROS
elevation to an extent comparable to that of the positive control, Coenzyme Q10 (Figure 2B).
Decreasing discomfort messenger’s release Environmental stress can impair the integrity of the cutaneous barrier, thus facilitating the penetration of irritant substances. As a result, skin responsiveness increases, triggering skin inflammation and inducting a cytokine cascade. To test the skin-soothing efficacy of the
Portulaca olearacea extract, we mimicked environmental stress by employing UVB-
Attenuating skin itchiness Many factors such as chemicals, pollutants or the inappropriate use of cosmetic products can exacerbate sensitive skin problems. Histamine is a biogenic amine neurotransmitter involved in numerous physiologic and pathologic processes, including pruritus, inflammation, and vascular leak. In the skin, histamine is synthesized by immune cells that reside in the dermis, and in small amounts also by keratinocytes.18
TABLE 1: ERYTHEMA VALUE PERCENTAGE VARIATION AFTER TREATMENT APPLICATION (T10; T30; T60) VERSUS T0
No treatment Portulaca Vita (0.5%)
Dexchlorpheniramine (1%) Placebo
T10vsT0 -1.70% -7.77% -11.30% -4.52%
Erythema value variation (%) T30vsT0
-6.39% -15.19% -16.49% -8.93%
P value
T60vsT0 -17.25% -22.18% -21.93% -16.95%
T10vsT0
0.000634 <0.0001 <0.0001
T30vsT0
<0.0001 <0.0001 <0.0001
0.098391 0.002769
TABLE 2: WHEAL DIAMETER PERCENTAGE VARIATION AFTER TREATMENT APPLICATION (T30; T60) VERSUS T10
No treatment Portulaca Vita (0.5%)
Dexchlorpheniramine (1%) Placebo
T30vsT0 -6.26% -12.11% -5.85% -3.44%
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Wheals diameter variation (%) T60vsT0
-19.77% -29.49% -19.34% -13.62%
T30vsT0 0.1074 0.0079 0.1104 0.1799
T60vsT0 0.0006 <0.0001 0.0009 0.0086
T60vsT0
<0.0001 <0.0001 <0.0001 <0.0001
stressed keratinocytes. Data summarized in Figure 3 show that in a UVB-treated human keratinocytes, Portulaca olearacea extract significantly prevented the increase in the gene expression of pro-inflammatory messengers, such as IL-1b (beta symbol), IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-a (alpha symbol). These data indicate that the Portulaca
olearacea extract can help to prevent skin hyper-reactivity by reducing the excessive release of pro-inflammatory mediators, thus suggesting a potential application of the extract as a natural soothing agent.
Interestingly, in the scalp, Kathy Kerr
et al. showed that histamine release is an associative marker of dandruff.19
In the LPS-
induced cell inflammation model, described in the material and method section, the Portulaca olearacea extract was found to inhibit the expression of the L-histidine decarboxylase, the enzyme responsible for histamine synthesis (Figure 4A). Moreover, the quantitative measurement
of histamine concentration in LPS-stressed macrophages confirmed a reduced rate of histamine release in cells treated with the Portulaca olearacea extract (Figure 4B). These results show the Portulaca olearacea extract has a significant histamine release suppressing action, indicating that the ingredient could be employed as a lenitive and soothing agent in cosmetic products.
Effect on skin comfort and soothing efficacy The onset of intense itching or pruritus due to external assaults is one of the most bothersome symptoms affecting the quality of life of people with reactive skin. The onset of intense itching or pruritus due to external assaults is one of the most bothersome symptoms affecting the quality of life of people with reactive skin. The clinical results of our histamine prick
test show the Portulaca olearacea extract used at 0.5% in a O/W emulsion has a significant soothing effect against skin inflammation. Data in Table 1 show that the measurement of erythema extent after histamine application (T0) revealed a significant reduction of redness after application of the Portulaca olearacea extract (–7.77%, at T10), which become clearly visible at T60 (–22.18%). The inflammatory reaction in terms of wheal diameter peaked at time T10. A significant decrease in mean wheal
diameter was observed at T30 versus T10 only in subjects treated with 0.5% Portulaca olearacea extract (Table 2). After additional 20 minutes (T60), the mean wheal diameter was further reduced up to -29,49%. Accordingly, subjects treated with 0.5% Portulaca olearacea extract reported a reduction of
January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
gene expression level (% to control = 100%)
amount of histamine (% to control)
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