50 ANTI-AGEING
melting behaviour that forms a lipidic film upon application similar to human stratum corneum, which consists of a hydrolipidic film and intercellular lipid layer to protect the skin and maintain moisture. Stratum corneum lipids have a special
organization that play an important role in the barrier function of the skin with its double lamellar phase structure and predominant orthorhombic lateral packing. To mimic this important function, the lipidic film formed by the second skin film former also exhibits a lamellar liquid crystal structure and orthorhombic lateral packing based on X-ray diffraction studies (data not shown). The second skin film former offers a
multifaceted approach to pollution protection in three ways: reducing the initial adhesion of pollutant particles on skin (anti-adhesion), decreasing the penetration of harmful substances into the skin (anti-penetration), and enhancing the rinse-off of surface pollutants (removability). The first line of defence is keeping
particulate matter off the skin to reduce exposure. Exposure to dust pollutants have been linked to oxidative stress and skin irritation.6
The results of the anti-
adhesion study in Figure 1 demonstrate that incorporating 5% of the second film former in a formulation leads to a 33% decrease in dust adhesion. In comparison, testing a macrowax
dispersion of the same composition does not offer substantial decrease in dust adhesion, thus indicating that the performance of the second skin film former is not simply due to the individual components of the lipid particle dispersion. The key to the anti-adhesion ability lies in the formation of the lipid film barrier. Thermal analysis of the second skin film
former showed a unique melting behaviour which is believed to facilitate in the formation of the lipid film (data not shown). The significant decrease in adhered particulate matter indicates the second film former supports anti-dust adhesion, potentially limiting skin exposure to airborne pollutants. Although the adhesion of pollutant
particles can be limited, it cannot be entirely prevented. Adhered pollutants can lead to the penetration of harmful substances into deeper layers of the epidermis.7
As such, the second
line of defence against airborne pollutants is reducing chemical penetration. The results of a chemical permeability study are reported in Figure 2. The formulation containing second skin
film former, at 58% penetration rate, showed a substantial reduction in chemical penetration. This is in stark contrast to the control base formulation by itself and with a comparable benchmark which offered little resistance to chemical penetration. The results demonstrate the lipid film formed by the second skin technology is effective in protecting against the penetration of harmful substances on the skin. The third line of defence is removability
because pollutants can accumulate on the skin throughout the day. Enhancing the rinse-off of surface pollutants is important to facilitate
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
easy and thorough removal of remaining pollutants. Figure 3 shows the second skin film former enhances the rinse-off of pollutant particles with full rinse-off of surface pollutants under warm water. The second skin film former is a highly
breathable way to add a protective layer to the skin which is a key differentiator from conventionally used film formers. Additionally, the second skin helps to support the skin barrier itself. Traditionally used film formers are often uncomfortable to the user on skin and do not offer many benefits beyond film formation itself. With molecules arranged in an orthorhombic lateral packing, the second skin film former allows water and air to pass through while blocking out the larger pollution particles. Air molecules (~0.148nm) and water molecules (~0.151nm) are smaller than the size of intermolecular spacing of the pores within the second skin, allowing for the passage of these molecules throughout the barrier. Pollution particles such as combustion particles, organic compounds and metals tend to have particle sizes greater than 2.5nm, making them too large to pass through the pores of the breathable film. Breathability makes it ideal for products
developed with sensitive skin in mind. This unique structure is also what contributes to a more comfortable wear for the consumer, making it relevant for daily wear applications such as creams, serums, and primers.
Conclusion BASF has developed a skin-mimicking film former, based on lipid particles, that adds a barrier of protection to the skin, protecting against pollutants and supporting the skin barrier.
As a first line of defence, the multifaceted
approach helps to block pollutants from adhering to the skin, as well as preventing pollutants from penetrating through the skin. Lastly, the unique removability aspect of the second skin film former allows for any pollutants that may be on the skin to be easily removed. These combined attributes make the
second skin film former a one-size-fits-all solution to the anti-pollution needs of the market today. By incorporating it into daily wear applications, brands can achieve holistic pollution protection, while offering healthy skin benefits to meet the full spectrum of consumer needs.
References 1. World Health Organization. Air Pollution. https://
www.who.int/health-topics/air-pollution
2. Ding A, Yang Y, Zhao Z et al. Indoor PM2.5 exposure affects skin aging manifestation in a Chinese population. Sci. Rep. 2017; 7:15329
3. Data and market information from Mintel GNPD 4. Mehling A, Koch JP, Freytag D, Jung R, Riedel H, Gondek H, Schulte P. Multidimensional Skin Protection. Personal Care Europe. November 2020
5. Sinkó B, Garrigues TM, Balogh GT, Nagy ZK, Tsinman O, Avdeef A, Takác-Novák. Skin- PAMPA: a new method for fast prediction of skin penetration. Eur. J. Pharm Sci. 2012; 45(5): 698- 707
6. Magnani ND, Muresan XM, Belmonte G, Cervellati F, Sticozzi C, Pecorelli A, Miracco C, Marchini T, Evelyon P, Valacchi G. Skin Damage Mechanisms Related to Airborne Particulate Matter Exposure. Toxicol Sci 2016, 149(1): 227-236
7. Puri P, Nandar SK, Kathuria S, Ramesh V. Effects of Air Pollution on the Skin: A Review, Indian Journal of Dermatology Venereology and Leprology. 83, (2017), July, 415-423
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