WATERLESS FORMULATION
the case of solid shampoo, the objective of the study was to substitute part of the wax of the formula with dextrin palmitate, while maintaining the performance of the product. The substitution of a little more than 50% of
the wax ensures a hardness equivalent to the control formula. Beyond texture studies, original protocols have been designed to measure the performance of these two formulas. The protocol to evaluate the foam of the solid shampoo showed that it took a small quantity of water to generate the foam on the hands and then clean the hair strands. Finally, this study showed that dextrin
palmitate is much more than just a thickening agent and that it can be used to structure more complex solid formulas. Choosing the appropriate type of dextrin palmitate, low- density or high-density, allows to best adapt the formulation targets.
Hand Foam 1 PC
References 1. Safety Assessment of Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review 2015. Available at: https://
www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ plpogu092015final.pdf
2. Varcin M, Utomo V, Grant-Ross P, Tamburic S. Instrumental and sensory characterisation of oleogels for cosmetic use. Proceedings – IFSCC Conference Zurich 2015
3. ISO 696:1975. Surface active agents — Measurement of foaming power — Modified Ross-Miles method. 1975
Hand Foam 2 Hand Foam 3 Figure 10: Illustration of the sensory evaluation of the foamability of the DP shampoo Hand Foam 1 Hand Foam 2
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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