HAIR CARE
35
Virgin Hair
solution in purified water of the shampoo, left in contact with it for two minutes, then rinsed for one minute and dried with a hairdryer for five minutes. Before the application of the product, and after the washing-test, readings were done through PLM (polarized light microscopy) microscope, enabling to obtain macroscopic dimensional determination. The measurements were recorded using a high-resolution camera and compared to each other. For colorimetric analysis, the colour
measurement was done using a Colorimeter CL 400 made by Courage & Khazaka. The probe emits white LED light. The light reflected is measured in the probe and expressed appropriately. The measured hair colour is expressed as XYZ tristimulus values and can be calculated in the L * a * b * system.
Resistance to traction and combing test These parameters were analyzed through a treatment on twelve strands of Caucasian bleached hair. Six strands were treated with a standard conditioning benchmark treatment (shampoo + conditioner based on vegetable amino-acids complex claimed as “phyto- keratin”). Another six locks were treated with a
Keratin @ 5% Figure 3: PLM images: Keratin verus Kerashaft V, leave-on treatments
shampoo and conditioner (containing Kerashaft @ 1.5%). The tensile test was run through the digital dynamometer ZTS 550N made by Imada. The bundle was strained and after the breakage, the maximum force, average force, and time to reach the max peak were obtained. For the combing test, combing was
analyzed through ZTS 550N that measures the friction generated between a comb/ brush and hair during grooming. Therefore, lubrication is evaluated by decreasing grooming forces for product-treated hair relative to the standard control. After grooming, the following parameters were obtained (maximum force and average force).
Results Kerashaft V - hair surface conditioning SEM analysis prove that the bleached hair treated with control sample shows uneven weft with fiberisation and non-overlapped crusting, while the leave-on treatments with Kerashaft V and hydrolyzed keratin @5% (Figure 1), induce remarkable improvement in longitudinal section of the cuticle crusting overlapping and effective and homogeneous filling in the transversal section (data not shown, available on demand). The longitudinal and transversal sections
were also analyzed (Figure 2) with a lower dosage treatment of Kerashaft V @ 1.5%. The treatment shows a visible strengthening of the cuticular scales, given by the active ingredient’s capability of settling on the surface of the hair and filling of the cracks and holes caused by the invasive chemical treatments (clearly visible in the untreated bleached hair). The formation of the white flakes at the joints detected on the untreated hair is totally avoided by the treatment, as proven by the sealing of the end portions after the application.
Hair restructuring and plex effect PLM tests show that compared to hydrolyzed keratin, Kerashaft V @ 5% used in leave-on application shows more effective restructuring action at cortex and peri-medular area than a benchmark hydrolyzed keratin treatment, as its crystallography follows the same pattern of virgin hair (Figure 3). Similar behaviour and performances were
observed with a treatment @1.5% against a benchmark phyto-keratin (Figure 4). Kerashaft V treated hair shows more defined and diversified polarization colours, particularly after the drying treatment. This specific activity pattern is likely ascribable to the restructuring features linked to:
Control
Kershaft @ 5%
Phytokeratin @ 1.5%
Kerashaft @ 1.5%
Figure 4: PLM images - benchmark phyto-keratin versus Kerashaft V, leave-on treatments
www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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