40 HAIR CARE A CAT■ SOD2 ■
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Control
+100% *
* *
+34% *
Portulaca Vita 0.002%
Portulaca Vita 0.01%
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control B Unstressed ■ 200 µM H2
-36% *
* 02■
Portulaca Vita 0.002%
Coenzyme Q 10 µM
Figure 2: Effect of Portulaca Vita on the gene expression of first-line defence antioxidants enzymes Catalase (CAT) and Superoxide dismutase 2 (SOD2) gene expression (A); Portulaca Vita inhibitory effect on mitochondrial ROS release in H202 stressed HaCaT cells (B)
of genes involved in skin barrier functions such as Aquaporin-3 and Hyaluronan Synthase 3. The in vivo soothing effect was visible as a reduction in redness (erythema), wheal diameter, and itching sensation. On the scalp, the effect of the Portulaca extract, tested under dry, itchy, and inflamed scalp conditions, exhibited excellent performance in alleviating scalp dryness, itching, flaking, and improving overall scalp conditions.
Performance backed by science The active ingredient Portulaca Vita (INCI: Portulaca Olearacea Extract), developed by Vitalab’s scientists was proven to effectively improve the dry and scaly conditions of the scalp as well as relieve the skin from external assaults. Portulaca Vita, hereafter known as the Portulaca olearacea extract, was developed from Portulaca plants cultivated organically and grown in fields that are located a few kilometres from Vitalab’s manufacturing facility. We rely on organic producers to sustainably
manage the cultivation and manual harvesting of our Portulaca plants, aiming at reducing transport costs and valorising local agriculture,
A
200 150 100 50 0
as well as allowing full traceability and reliability of the supply chain. The young Portulaca plants are minimally processed using an innovative solid-liquid extraction technology. In one step, we maximise the extraction potential to obtain a unique Portulaca’s phyto-footprint which fully preserves its precious chemical constituents. The extract was chemically characterized
for its content of total polyphenols (9.8±0.4 mg GAE/gr), fructose (27.9±2.1 mg/gr), glucose (21.1±1.8 mg/gr) and total protein (0.24.9±0.05.1 mg BSA equiv./gr).10–12
of the extract, evaluated by ABTS assay was 60.8±2.2 mM TE/gr).11
Maintaining epidermal hydric homeostasis Cutaneous irritation is often associated with skin dryness, as a results of a compromised epidermal barrier and consequent loss of moisture-retaining substances.13
Aquaporins
(AQPs), commonly known as ‘water channels’ are trans-membrane proteins that facilitate the water across cell plasma membranes. AQP3, one of the 13 isotypes of aquaporins, is the most abundant AQP present in the
B UVB 30mJ ■ UVB 30mJ + Portulaca Vita 0.002% ■
-52% *
-56% **
-76% **
-69% ***
The antioxidant capacity
skin epidermis. Studies showed that AQP3 is also directly involved in the development and maintenance of a competent epidermal barrier.14 A second major player involved in skin
moisturization is hyaluronic acid (HA), a predominant element of the extracellular matrix with a unique capacity in retaining water in the dermis and epidermis. HA is synthesized by three hyaluronan synthases (HAS1, HAS2, and HAS3), with HAS3 playing a major role in the regulation of HA synthesis in the epidermis.15
Recent studies also showed
that HA and its receptor (CD44) are involved in the normalization of the epidermal lipid composition.16 Our results showed that Portulaca
olearacea extract treatment of epidermal cells effectively up-regulates the AQP3 and HAS3 gene expression (Figure 1). The Portulaca olearacea extract induced the genes encoding for both AQP3 and HA synthesis by 26% and 40%, respectively, an effect comparable to the one observed with retinoic acid, employed as positive control. These results suggest the Portulaca olearacea extract could effectively orchestrate epidermal hydric balance by promoting skin barrier recovery, and stratum corneum hydration.
Improving skin protection targeting redox imbalance Continuous exposure to environmental pro- oxidant agents has been proposed as one of the mechanisms underlying skin irritancy. The imbalance between endo-/exogenously generated reactive oxygen species (ROS), and intracellular antioxidant defence can lead to oxidative stress conditions. The excess of free radicals strongly impacts several skin’s cellular components, such as cell membrane, organelles, and DNA exacerbating the skin and scalp barrier defects.17 To assess whether the Portulaca olearacea
IL-1b IL-6 IL-8 TNF-A
Figure 3: Effect of Portulaca Vita on pro-inflammatory messenger’s release in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes: IL-1b and IL-6 (A) and Il-8 and TNF-a (B). Data are expressed as percent of control not -irradiated cells set to 100%
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
extract could contribute to prevent the onset of oxidative stress conditions, we evaluated its ability to potentiate antioxidant defence and to counteract ROS increase in keratinocytes. We found the Portulaca olearacea extract
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Gene expression level (% to control cells-100)
Gene expression level (% to control cells-100)
Mitocondrial ROS (% to stressed cells-100)
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