42 HAIR CARE
56% in respect of the perceived itch after 10 minutes from the stress, over performing by 21% the reduction observed in subjects treated with the positive control dexchlorpheniramine 1% (Figure 5). All the above results indicate that treatment
with 0.5% Portulaca olearacea extract paralleled or exceeded that obtained with the reference molecule dexchlorpheniramine 1%, displaying a significant soothing effect against an inflammatory reaction, in terms of wheals, itching and redness decrease.
Soothing and anti-itching effect on the scalp A dry, itchy, and inflamed scalp is a common and bothersome condition that affects individuals independent of their gender or ethnicity.20
Aside from epidermal barrier
impairment, scalp dryness and itchiness have been associated with focal micro-inflammatory processes and a local increase in the release of neuromodulators such as histamine.19 We demonstrated that after only seven
days (D7), a leave-on lotion containing 0.5% Portulaca olearacea extract reduced the average score of all the analysed parameters (Figure 6 and Figure 7A). The effects of the lotion became more marked after four weeks (D28) application, where scalp itchiness and dandruff score significantly decreased by 22% and 30%, respectively, as compared to baseline (Figure 6A & 6B), thus demonstrating that the Portulaca olearacea extract has a scalp soothing and rebalancing effect. Similarly, at time D28 scalp hydration was increased by about 26% as compared to baseline (Figure 7A). Volunteers completing a self-assessment questionnaire reported a significant amelioration of all symptoms such as scalp dryness, pruritus and tautness when compared to baseline or placebo formulation. The overall scalp condition was considered to have improved as evaluated by microscopic analysis with Trichoscan HD (DermoScan) (Figure 7B).
Materials and Methods In vitro testing ■ Cells: Human epidermal keratinocyte
A D7 2
-3 -8
-13 -18 -23 -28
D28 0 -5
-10 -15
-60% *
-20 -25 -30 -35
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
■ T0 ■ T10 ■ T30 ■ T60
No treatment 7.25
4.85 1.5 1
Portulaca Vita (0.5%)
7.15
2.95 1.35 0.5
Dexchlorpheniramine (1%)
7.2
3.65 1.15 0.6
Placebo 7.15
3.75 1.5
0.8
Figure 5: Mean itching values after histamine prick test (T0) and 10 (T10), 30 (T30) and 60 (T60) minutes after treatment application
(HaCaT) and macrophage (Raw 264.7) cells were maintained in DMEM plus 10% of FBS at 37°C in a humidified 5%CO2
incubator.
The Portulaca oleracea extract powder was dissolved in culture medium at the desired concentration. ■ Gene expression in HaCaT cells: RT-PCR analysis was performed on cells exposed for six hours (HAS3 and AQP3) or two hours (CAT and SOD2) to Portulaca olearacea extract mitochondrial ROS levels were measured with the dye MitoSOX in H2
O2
incubated with the Portulaca olearacea extract for two hours.21 ■ Cytokine levels were evaluated RT-PCR analysis in cells incubated overnight with the Portulaca olearacea extract, stressed with UV (30mJ/cm2) and then treated again with it for additional four hours before the assay. Histamine content. Raw 264.7
cells were pre-
treated with the Portulaca olearacea extract for two hours before adding 1µg/ml LPS for a further 16 hours. After that the quantity of
B D7 D28
histamine was determined using 1 mg/ml of o-Phthaldialdehyde. All the in vitro experiments were performed
in triplicates and repeated at least three times. The data are expressed as mean standard deviation (SD) of three independent experiments and the statical analysis was performed with a Student’s t-test for paired data (*** p-value < 0.001; ** 0.001 < p < 0.01;* 0.01 < p < 0.05).
-stressed HaCaT
Soothing effect on sensitized skin The clinical efficacy of the Portulaca olearacea extract in alleviating itching and reducing the effects of an inflammatory reaction, was tested in vivo with a double-blind study on a panel of 20 volunteers aged 18-65 years old. Each volunteer was skin prick tested in triplicate on the volar side of the forearm with histamine hydrochloride (10mg /ml). Subsequently, pricked areas were then
-30.03% *
Placebo ■ Portulaca Vita 0.5% ■
Figure 6: Effect of Portulaca Vita on scalp itchiness evaluated by VAS (A) and scalp desquamation evaluated by individual dandruff mean score (IDMS) (B)
PERSONAL CARE January 2023
treated as follows: a non-occlusive cutaneous formulation with 0.5% Portulaca olearacea extract, a placebo formulation, a commercially available topical formulation containing 1% dexchlorpheniramine (Polaramin) as reference control; a non-treated area was taken as a negative control. The following parameters were evaluated: erythema (hemoglobin index, E), measured with the Mexameter, wheal diameter (mm) and subjective evaluation of itching sensation measured with the visual analogue scale (VAS; from 0 = no itch to 10 = maximum itch). Each parameter was evaluated before prick (basal values), ten minutes after prick but before products application (T0) and 10 (T10), 30 (T30) and 60 (T60) minutes after products application for each area. Statistical analysis was performed using a Student's t-test for paired data. P values <0.05 were considered significant.
Evaluation of the scalp itchiness, flaking and hydration An independent double-blind clinical test
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VAS score % variation vs T0
Dandruff Mean score (IDMS) % variation vs T0
Visua analog scales
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