WATERLESS FORMULATION
29
The whys and wherefores of waterless formulating
Jessica Dynda – Koster Keunen
Newsworthy headlines have revealed our water scarcity on a global level. The summer of 2022 saw severe droughts on multiple continents, showing the gravity of the current water situation. In some areas of the world, low water lines were marked with omens from the past; stones and carvings on rocks that can only be seen when the water dips to harshly low levels.1 These signs were seen in both Germany
and the Czech Republic. They are called hunger stones,2
which act as a warning that severe
drought for crops and people are ahead. Across in China, the Yangtze River dropped so significantly that 600-year-old Buddha statues have reemerged for the first time from the riverbeds. Not all continents have carvings; their
droughts are marked in other ways. France has had one of the worst droughts in their history which has reduced crops, will affect the amount of milk and cheese they produce, and has forced countrywide water restrictions.3 In the United States, the government stated that about 43% of the country was in a drought through the summer of 2022.4
water. Lastly, shipping finished products with less water will reduce the environmental effects by lowering energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions both of which affect our water supplies.
of the ocean temperatures and global warming, also known as climate change. Water is a resource we need to use wisely. Experts state that there are many ways to help with water shortages and climate change. Some are governmental and include combating desertification, reducing deforestation, supporting biodiversity, and water conservation. The United Nations has also created an app
While the US does
not have hunger stones, they have seen Lake Mead in Nevada down to 27% capacity. In Africa, a continent that is wrought with both water and food scarcity, they are facing their worst drought in 40 years. Droughts are cumulative and are marked as
a lack of precipitation over time which results in water shortages.5
Sometimes drought is triggered
by cyclical weather patterns, but over the last few decades they are more likely caused by the rise
TABLE 1: SAVE WATER LOTION BAR FORMULATION Phase Ingredients
INCI A
Sustainable White Beeswax
Kester Wax K-60P Kester Wax K-24
Castor Oil
High Oleic Sunflower Oil
Almond Oil
Sipernat 11 PC Optiphen
Vitamin E Acetate Beeswax
Polyhydroxystearic Acid Lauryl Laurate
Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Hydrated Silica
Tocopheryl Acetate Parfum
where individuals can take their own actions and log their contributions. The app lists ten things we can all do, starting today, to help fight climate change and is available on the UN website.6 Companies throughout the world are discussing their water conservation strategies. As an industry, reducing the amount of water used in personal care products is a practice that can help. We can make a difference by creating products that reduce consumers water usage and by formulating and producing with less
Supplier % w/w
1 1
1 2 2
2 3
3 4
20.0 5.0
20.0 28.0
21.0
18.0 2.0
1.0 2.0
Procedure: Combine all ingredients, melt at 80-85 °C and mix until uniform. Pour into containers at about 80 °C and cool. Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2: Marron Group 3. Evonik 4. BASF
Formula types for conservation Consumers are looking for ways to be more eco-friendly, conserve water and help save the planet. Offering products that support these actions, supports the customers’ needs as well as our planet. There are three main practices that can help conserve water: reducing the amount of plastic packaging, offering concentrated formulas, and reducing water consumption throughout the process.
1. Plastic reduction Over many years plastic has been building up on our planet,7
including in our oceans and
waterways. Plastic also leaches harmful toxins into water, affecting the ecosystem, and our natural aquifers.8
The use of plastic bottles in
the personal care market is widespread. Large volume bottles from big box stores
holding usage for six months have been popular for hair and body care. Recycling can help if the system works properly, however reducing the amount of plastic could provide a far greater result. Here is where the chemist comes in. By
formulating products that do not evaporate, the packaging does not need to be plastic. If a formulation does not evaporate, the package type can expand into cardboard and other,
TABLE 2: ALL OVER SHAVE STICK FORMULATION Phase Ingredients
INCI A Kostol TMC-25
AR Cocoa Butter Cetearyl Alcohol
Jeechem CTG Coconut Oil Hemp Oil
Plantcare 818 Optiphen
“Sea Blooms”
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride
Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil Cannabis sativa Seed Oil Coco Glucoside
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
Parfum Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2: Jeen 3. Brenntag 4. BASF 5. Carrubba
2 3 3 4
3 5
Supplier % w/w 1 1 50.0
10.0 20.0
9.0 4.0 2.0 2.0
1.0 2.0
Procedure:Mix and melt first six ingredients until liquid and uniform, at 90 – 95 °C. Lower the temperature to 80 °C, add the next three ingredients. Mix well after each addition. Quickly pour into containers of choice. Cool completely and unmold.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
January 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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