Flowering started in early June


and was largely over by the middle of the month, but the wet weather caused coulure (poor fruit set) and millerandage (uneven grape size), which limited potential yields. Temperatures rose in the second half of June, but so, too, did losses to downy mildew, as it was the fifth consecutive month of above-average rainfall—a record 120mm (4.7in), 50% higher than usual. Veraison started in the Côte d’Or around July 20 and was mostly over by the end of the month, when temperatures rose further. But downy mildew remained a risk, and now there was also the threat of powdery mildew. Constant vigilance was needed in the vineyards, and as rain repeatedly washed off the copper and sulfur sprays used to fight the mildew, those with the necessary resources had to repeat the treatments—up to 16 times across the Hospices de Beaune vineyards. August brought some respite, as conditions finally became drier as well as warmer, which helped the grapes to ripen, though unusually the Chardonnay generally needed longer than the Pinot Noir. The weather changed again toward the end of the month and into the first week of September, as the rain returned, though more fell in the Côte de Nuits than in the Côte de Beaune. Grapes for still wines were picked from September 12, and the harvest was completed during the middle two weeks of September, when there was a final spell of favorable weather, before the rain set in again during the last week of the month. Alcohol levels were lower than usual, and rigorous sorting was necessary to ensure quality—Griveau estimates that the Domaine des Hospices de Beaune sacrificed between 3% and 5% of the crop at this stage. But she is sure that it was well worth it. “I bet you won’t find any mention of a ‘vintage of the century’— except perhaps in reference to downy mildew! But the wines are very good, they are organic, and they have the merit of showing us a new path. The white wines are upright and pure, with acidity faithful to the noblest qualities of fine Chardonnay. The red wines are colorful, with bright and intense fruit, and tannins that can be robust yet round.” At the tasting of all the Hospices de Beaune cuvées before the sale, the wines were indeed showing very well, with no sign of the difficulties of the growing season.


THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 21


Photography by Thierry Gaudillère


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