Given that 99% of the Côte d’Or is already planted, Delaunay argues the best option to expand domaines is the Hautes-Côtes, “where we have similar soil and latitude.” The changing climate has made cultivating quality fruit not just feasible, but more desirable than the alternatives


particularly with the risk of frost, but also in the fruit profile, since it was difficult to achieve sufficient phenolic ripeness and sugar. Many producers mentioned that the likelihood of frost has receded, but it is not risk-free. Nicolas Thevenot recalls, “My father said frost was a big issue in the ’70s and ’80s, but then we had a big frost in 2016 and lost 75% of our crop, and the hail in 2018 was the worst he ever saw.” As Claire Naudin observes, “Climate change has brought more extreme conditions.”


At Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Pierre Gros considers that their vineyards on the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits have fewer risks from frost, extreme seasons, and disease. “The frost was less of an issue in 2016 on the Hautes-Côtes than on the Cote d’Or, and there was none there in 2021. The vines are less sensitive to frost because the budding is between seven and ten days later on the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.” He adds, “Most producers on this part of the Hautes-Côtes have vines on slopes and never at the bottom of a valley, where the frost collects.” Claire Naudin of Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand also believes that her vineyards are well adapted to the altitude. I met Claire at 6pm on a June evening, when she rather reluctantly left the vineyard to speak with me. Claire is devoted to her vines, so these precious hours were not to be frittered away on idle chit-chat. “I don’t talk to journalists or read wine magazines,” was her opening gambit. With a little coaxing, however, she seemed happy to explain how she manages the conditions in her Hautes-Côtes vineyards with a higher fruiting zone, pruning twice and plowing later.


THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 113


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