Sarah Marsh MW
onto the palate; satin-smooth and streamlined. Notes of black cherry and bitter chocolate. 14% ABV, but it feels lighter. The warmth of the vintage is evident on the slightly exotic finish, which is not especially persistent, but this does show Echézeaux elegance. 2026–33. | 92–93
BENJAMIN LEROUX Meursault Premier Cru Charmes-Dessus
Picked on August 30. Aged in 228-liter and 300-liter barrels. Silky, slightly slinky, salty and ripe, even a touch exotic. Really a bit of everything… and on the finish, too, both sweet and salty. 2027–35. | 94–95
Meursault Premier Cru Genevrières
Because of the hail, this is a blend from the upper and lower sections, as well as from a part of the vineyard that has since been pulled out. All of the parcels were picked together, on August 30, and co-fermented, before being aged in a mix of 300-liter and 228-liter barrels. Only 1,050 bottles (no magnums). It is quite exotic, perfumed, and purple, but equally it has a lovely, long, mineral, and focused finish. 2027–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Tête du Clos
This parcel lies just below La Romanée. Aged in two 228-liter barrels, neither new. This is punchy and dense and carries the 14% ABV well. There is richness, breadth, and grip, and it pushes on the savory finish. Compact, too. 2027–36. | 94–95
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From Languettes. Only one barrel. It is streamlined, intense, and focused, with a persistent, cool, savory finish. 2027–37. | 96
POMMARD DOMAINE DU COMTE ARMAND Paul Zinetti didn’t do a green-harvest here, which meant a lot of work on the sorting table.
Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux
Deep, blueberry-fruit aroma, with some red-cherry highlights. An elegant sweep into the palate, on ripe forest fruits. Smooth mid-palate, with just a light tannic grip. Quite nice intensity. Slight sapidity to the end, where there is a fresher bite. It’s very pleasant but lacks some dynamism. “A difficult vintage, so I am happy,” said Paul. 2027–35. | 93
JEAN-MARC BOILLOT Lydie and François Alzingre like to do an early harvest. No green-harvest but debudding. Yields for red were 50hl/ha, and for white, 55hl/ha (60hl/ha for village). Reds are 100% destemmed.
White
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champ Canet More tropical on the nose than the Referts here.
Super-juicy, generous, and relatively fresh. It has an airy and rounded feel. Light on its feet and the finish is salty and pure. 2025–32. | 93
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Combettes
A rich and full, dense wine. A touch heady, with the 14% ABV, which shows a little, but it is compact and has an almost chewy palate. Full-bodied, layered, punchy and powerful, pushing through on the finish. 2028–38. | 94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière
Floral and pure. An upright aroma. On the palate, this is streamlined, zesty, and nervy on the finish. It is delicate and precise. A delightful, white-flower note lingers on the finish. 2026–32. | 95
Red Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens
From old vines in Rugiens-Bas: three barrels, which is a good harvest there. A big step up on the other reds I tried here this year. It has silky tannins and intensity. A fine and elegant profile to an extended and supple finish. A river of silk and pure, lucid fruit. What a lovely example. 2026–35. | 94–95
DOMAINE DU PAVILLON One of Albert Bichot’s estates: 16ha (40 acres), certified organic. Bichot’s joint-technical director, Matthieu Mangenot, explains that they did a strict green-harvest for reds.
White Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes
From two parcels in Charmes-Dessus and one in Charmes-Dessous, 1.2ha (3 acres) in total. Ripe, citrus aroma and a glossy, slightly tropical, full and rounded palate, but beneath this and on the finish is a line of freshness. After the rich start, some tension is present. 2025–30. | 91–92
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From 1.2ha (3 acres) in Languettes. 30% new oak. The ripe citrus fruit has an engaging, pure tone as it hits the palate. Rich but channeled, deep and straight. There is some vigor. An attractive, lemon- pith note mid-palate, and the sweet and salty finish has decent persistence. 2026–32. | 93
Red Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens
This has a spicy lift to the aroma. I like the fresh nose, with its forest fruit and a hint of herbs and pepper. A sweet and fluid ripple into the palate; this flows easily along, on light, fine-textured tannins. There is a nice thread of freshness through the fruit, too, and it wafts gently into the finish. For Rugiens, this is light and approachable, without the muscle that you mighty normally expect, but that said, it’s a charming and well-balanced wine. 2025–30. | 92
NANTOUX
DOMAINE BORIS CHAMPY Boris Champy makes his biodynamic wines in Nantoux. “2023 was a small production—less than 2022—because of the green-harvest.” Top-notch Hautes-Côtes.
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc Montagne 382
From the Montagne de Cras lieu-dit, which lies at 382m (1,250ft). Ripe and yet super-zesty on the attack. A neatly compact mid-palate, then savory to finish, with slightly silex, smoky notes. 2025–30. | 85
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc Montagne 382 Presse Vertical
This version is from a vertical press, and from the slow, gentle pressing, Boris takes clear juice, which didn’t need settling. Matured in barrels, some of which are new. Lime-fresh and pure, this is straighter and racier than the previous wine. Crisply edged and straight, with a precise and delicate finish. 2025–28. | 86
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Bignon 421
From a parcel on red clay at the top of the slope and on a plateau. The aroma is dark and spicy. Punches on the palate. Full-bodied. Grippy tannin and meatiness, with a slightly exotic note. Grunty finish. 2026–30. | 85
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Clou 377
Au Clou is marly. Snappy tannins and a clean cut of savory minerality. I like the austerity and lively line. The salty finish is pure, tight, and has salinity. Boris says it is a very good terroir for whole-bunch. 2026–30. | 86
VOLNAY
DOMAINE DU MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE François Duvivier told me they did no green-harvest and began picking on September 5. The average yield was 40hl/ha, following a light sorting of a few dry berries. He made no adjustments. As ever, this domaine destemmed and used only remontage. It is biodynamic in the vineyard and in the winery. “It is a seductive and approachable vintage due to the warm harvest, but we tried to keep the freshness so we could keep the identity of each terroir.”
Volnay Premier Cru Champans
The domaine is the largest owner of Champans, with 4ha (10 acres), in two strips running from the top to the bottom. This is a much fuller and plumper wine. No lack of generosity. Sturdy on the tannins and slighter chewier to finish. 2027–32. | 92
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Ducs This is the most concentrated wine. It is full and rich
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 189
LAYING DOWN: 2023 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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