Sarah Marsh MW
Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
From clay soil below the château, planted in the 1920s and ’30s. Richly floral aroma. Silky and generous, with a gorgeous texture, sumptuous and yet fresh. So very Vosne. A delightful, rich ribbon of fruit to finish. 2026–35. | 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Brûlées
There is just one 300-liter barrel of this cuvée, from the Richebourg side, which will be sold for charity. Small berries and some whole-bunch: “I was looking for more strictness.” A warm and rich aroma. But compact and dense on the palate, even somewhat austere. Punchy. Quite some tannic matter here. 2028–40. | 94–95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau
Louis-Michel has 0.2ha (0.5 acre) of this 0.6ha (1.5-acre) vineyard en fermage from Lamarche. “I am still discovering this parcel,” he says. “The subsoil looks like Clos du Château—a big block of rose marble. Why is this part separate from Romanée-St-Vivant? Was it an orchard for the monks? There is not much record of this vineyard.” A very seductive floral aroma. Ripples along on a rich river of fruit to an aromatic, lingering finish. 2028–40. | 96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts
This also comes via Lamarche, and from old vines, since these were not replaced in the 1980s when Lamarche replanted. A seven-barrel cuvée in 2023, for it’s from a sizable parcel of 0.5ha (1.2 acres). This is compact and dense yet opulent. Plentiful, velvety tannins. Great volume and so sumptuous. A powerful finish, with sapid freshness. Good stuff. “I destemmed it all, because I could see Malconsorts and it didn’t need anything more.” 2029–40. | 97
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Lithe, silky, and pure. Intense and finely grained. It skates elegantly on the palate, and I prefer it to the bigger, richer Grands Echézeaux. Slim-textured and neatly edged, this focuses on the finish. It is discreet. 2027–38. | 96–97
La Romanée Grand Cru
Extraordinary intensity of aroma. Distilled essence of rose petal… even if I’m slightly afraid I may say that every year. (I don’t look at my previous notes.) What a depth to the silk on the palate. Enveloping. It is utterly indulgent and yet so refined. All about the aromatics and the texture. An incredible finish. Wonderfully persistent and hauntingly perfumed. Entrancing. It may well deserve a perfect score once it’s in bottle. 2028–40+. | 99
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Rich and full aroma. Burly on the attack. No lack of volume here. Showy but not heavy. Vigorous. Powerful finish. Classic, big, bold Clos de Vougeot. 2029–40. | 95–96
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot Blanc
A light, nutty aroma, with a hint of golden peach. On the palate, it has a light gloss up-front and a firm structure, albeit smoothly stony. An appealing tannic note to the finish, which combines with some sapidity and austerity. 2026–30+. | 92–93
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Cuvée Mont des Oiseaux
Vines from the top part of the vineyard and younger vines. Upright, slightly haughty, red-cherry aroma, with an attractive, smoky reduction. Crisp and
DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers
Ripe cherry fruit, but this is a bright and zesty Nuits, with a spring in its step. A fresh cut of stone. Prances into a long finish. 2027–33. | 93–94
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cros Parantoux
100% new oak, but it has the intensity to absorb it. Smooth and generous, yet fresh enough. A lovely balance of sumptuous fruit and freshness, with the new oak just boosting this. A gloss to the texture. The finish is velvety and very well sustained. 2027–38. | 96
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From 0.4ha (1 acre) of lieu-dit Les Rouges du Bas. 80% new oak. An elegant, pure, and neatly edged, fresh Echézeaux. Streamlined. Good tension and vibrancy on the finish, which is persistent and has a firm and mineral note. Salty at the end. Spot-on. 2027–36. | 96–97
Richebourg Grand Cru
A concentrated palate, with a depth of rich, red fruit. Spicy, with notes of star anise; a combination of the new oak and the ripeness. Channeled and quite discreet. There is piquancy and energy on the straight and persistent finish. The texture is fine. Just at the end, there is more of the spice, and a perfumed finish. 2028–40+. | 97–98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Full, ripe, expressive aroma, then on the palate, it has power and toned muscularity. Volume and richness. Punches into a long and strong finish. 2028–40. | 96–97
NUITS-ST-GEORGES DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT Winemaker Géraldine Godot remarked, “We took care in the vineyard and practiced debudding, so we had a normal volume.” She did a green-harvest only for the Romanée-St-Vivant. Attractive whites and refined red wines here this year.
White
An expressive and intense aroma of ripe summer fruit: strawberry fields. Almost creamy into the palate. Ice-cream texture, succulent and rich. Rounded yet airy. It has a light white-peppery note. Such a suave Suchots, ripples into the finish. I can see the rose petal on the finish which, as this wine evolves, I am sure will become more defined. Just a lovely example. 2027–35. | 95–96
DOMAINE JEAN CHAUVENET Christophe Drag didn’t do a green-harvest. “Since 2003, we have had grasses between the rows, and with that competition the grapes are always small.” In Christophe’s 2023s, I was surprised by the concentration coupled with freshness and plentiful, ripe tannin. It just goes to show how diverse this vintage can be. Christophe’s wines are a great example of what could be achieved in Nuits in 2023—and it is rather remarkable that he didn’t green-harvest.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Damodes
Red fruit, with a waft of the spice market on the nose, but the palate is different. Supple at first, then light grip and a slightly bitter hint of charcoal and tapenade. A savory palate. Salty. Interesting. 2026–35. | 93–94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Perrières
Reserved. Pure and straight, with well-defined edges. Channeled palate. Dark and tight, with a crisp bite and snap of bitter, dark-chocolate freshness to the finish. Racy. Minty chocolate. 2027–35. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Rue de Chaux
The parcel was planted as long ago as 1936, when THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 185
light, with plenty of tension and a fizzle of chalky freshness. Dances to a mineral tune. Sparkles on the palate. Such a pretty wine. 2026–32. | 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot
From 60-year-old vines. Ripe red-cherry and floral aromas. I love the delicacy. Finely textured chiffon tannin. Lucid, wafting. Bright. There is a herbal aromatic note to the finish, which I think accentuated the freshness. A shiver of red fruit and salt at the end. 2026–32. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges
Forest fruits, much wilder and earthier when tasted after the urbane Vosne Suchots. It has light grip and a compact, somewhat growling palate. Strong and dark, smoky and earthy to finish. Powerful punch to the finish. Not as sophisticated as the Suchots, but there is no doubting the length. “It has muscles, and we have more structure here. I feel it is a level up,” says Géraldine. 2028–35. | 94–95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots
LAYING DOWN: 2023 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197 |
Page 198 |
Page 199 |
Page 200 |
Page 201 |
Page 202 |
Page 203 |
Page 204 |
Page 205 |
Page 206 |
Page 207 |
Page 208 |
Page 209 |
Page 210 |
Page 211 |
Page 212 |
Page 213 |
Page 214 |
Page 215 |
Page 216 |
Page 217 |
Page 218 |
Page 219 |
Page 220
