tasting / laying down / 2023 Burgundy
DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ White
Musigny Blanc Grand Cru
A blend from two parcels. The current vines were planted in 1992, and the wine was first bottled as grand cru again in 2015 (having been sold as Bourgogne Blanc before that). Greengage aromas and hot stone. Cold bite on the palate. Super-savory. Powerful, buttoned-down, and super-concentrated. Rich and compact. Tense and salty on the finish. A chalky, savory note. It’s quite severe to finish—which I like. 2028–46. | 94–95
Red Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
From vines less than 25 years old in Musigny, planted in 2007, with a good massal selection. The parcel is located just south of Amoureuses. There is just 0.3ha (0.74 acre) of this younger material now, as the other two thirds have graduated into the Musigny cuvée. Super-silky and intense. This is tight, straight, and focused, with tension and minerality, and is nicely persistent on the finish, where there is a light vibration. It is certainly not as long as the main cuvée of Musigny, but I think this is due largely to the location of the parcel, rather than to the age of the vines. This works better with the whole-bunch than does the Amoureuses. 2028–35. | 95–96
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses
The holding here is 0.5ha (1.2 acres) but 40% has been pulled out. The part remaining is at the top of the climat, on what soil analysis has shown to be pure Comblanchien limestone. Intense, red- fruit aroma. Succulent fruit on the front-palate, then tight, zesty, and somewhat edgy. There is some austerity here. It is tart and ends on a sapid note. The whole-bunch—approximately 50%, layered in the tank—is not quite as well integrated for now; maybe the proportion or handling needs perfecting. It’s not delicate, seeming tighter and more vertical and slightly severe. It’s not typical, but that may well be a reflection of the terroir in the particular section used. 2027–32. | 94
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
From 2.6ha (6.4 acres) on clay soil in the south corner. Dark and spicy. Concentrated and dense. But also a lot of sweet tannins. Punchy, powerful, and somewhat muscular. Jean says it is a more Chambolle style of Bonnes Mares, but I am not quite so sure about that. I find it dense and bold, dark and spicy. 2029–40. | 95
Musigny Grand Cru DOMAINE GEORGES NOËLLAT
50% whole bunch. There is richness, gloss, and sweetness of fruit up front. Power and intensity and a lot of concentration mid-palate. There is certainly impressive density and, on the finish, salty persistence. I like the austerity at the end of the palate. 2029–40. | 97
184 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaumonts
From the Bas section, just above his Echézeaux. Deep aroma. Rich and succulent. This is a full,
VOSNE-ROMANÉE DOMAINE GROS FRÈRE & SOEUR
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Vincent lost his holding in Grands Echézeaux to Anne Gros. This is from Loächausses, and while it may not be the best site in Echézeaux, this has charm. A ripe and spicy aroma to this light-bodied Echézeaux, with a waft of crisp tannin, delicate and fresh, with a herbal note to the finish. Light minty notes. 2027–35+. | 93
Richebourg Grand Cru
The first parcel to be picked at this domaine, which keeps it in the red-fruit spectrum. Rich, rose-petal aroma and ripe summer fruits on the palate. This glides on a glossy, satin-rich texture. A big level up in intensity and focus on the other grands crus here. So much rich fruit channeled into the rich and persistent finish. 2028–35. | 96–97
DOMAINE ANNE GROS “You are lucky if you have a vintage like this once in your life,” enthused Anne. It is difficult to do better for quality and quantity.”
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From lieu-dit Loächausses, where all the Gros family have their parcels. Very spicy, with gingerbread notes. A direct palate, with quite nice tension and zesty brightness to the finish. Silky and smooth, this has an easy fluidity. 2027–35. 94
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Richer and more seductive. An alluring, glossy, smooth palate. A swaggering, full-bodied Echézeaux, with a creamy, milk-chocolate richness on the finish. A notch up in density and intensity. Here I prefer the Grands Echézeaux, whereas at many other domaines with both wines, I have preferred the Echézeaux in 2023. 2027–35. | 96
Richebourg Grand Cru
Super-intense. Channeled and focused on the finish, which is very fine and persistent, with plenty of energy and a salty touch. Anne always has a bright and light effect in her Richebourg. It has vibration at the end. 2028–40. | 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From old vines planted in 1904 in lieu-dit Petit Maupertui, just over the wall from the Grands Echézeaux parcel. An energized Vougeot and it has so much intensity. Compact and tight and it jumps into the really vigorous finish. Punchy but well-contained. Not a big, broad palate, but there is muscle nonetheless. Among the best I tasted. 2028–40. | 97
Ripe, deep, cherry-sweet aroma, which carries through to a rich, very ripe palate. Intensely sweet and juicy, with lowish acidity. A more fruit-driven, luscious style in which you feel the warmth of the vintage. 2027–34. | 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Cras
From a climat situated between Aux Boudots and La Richemone, near the border with Vosne. Upright on the nose. Haughty. Snappy palate. Crunches. Energetic. Sappy and bright. I like the fine-chalk, talcy tannins. There’s a real crackle to the finish, too. So fresh. I love this. It’s all there. Among my favorite wines from Nuits this vintage. Top-notch. 2028–38. | 95
luscious style of Beaumont, with good mid-palate density, and of all the wines that I tried here, only this one had some light grip to the tannins. 2028–34. | 94–95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
Intense, redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit on the aroma—zesty and energetic. I like this light and lively Vosne, with its vibrant fruit on the finish. Silky tannins, too. 2027–33. | 94
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From lieu-dit Vignes Blanches and vines planted in 1925. Pure and lively, silky and direct. A streamlined Echézeaux, which is aromatic on the finish and has a light sapid note. 2027–35. | 95
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Richer and darker than the Echézeaux, battened down for now. Dense and punchy. Interesting, as it is even richer and more structured than the Clos de Vougeot, though the parcels are very close. 2028–35. | 95
DOMAINE DU COMTE LIGER-BELAIR White
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes
Although the parcel for this wine lies below the Route 74, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair likes to point out that the road is not on the flat here but slightly higher, so the vineyard is on a light slope. There was foulage before pressing, a long settling, and a “super-long fermentation.” Made in 350-liter and 228-liter barrels. Louis-Michel prefers an earlier bottling for this wine, before the end of the year. The aroma is ripely citrus, with notes of marzipan. The palate is both creamy and cloaking and yet also softly mineral. Richly textured, with a fresh and vibrant tannic note to finish. A concentrated and quite full-bodied wine, but it has a surprising pounce to attack the finish. 2026–35. | 92–93
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes
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