Sarah Marsh MW
for ten years—a late release to encourage longer aging, a strategy that began with the 2018 vintage. Harvest started on August 24, with another new parcel—Genevrières. The élevage was the same for all the wines. Eleven months in a mix of 228-liter and 500-liter barrels, 1,200-liter Stockinger foudres, and 700-liter porcelain and sandstone vessels. All the wines were racked the August before the following harvest into stainless-steel tanks.
Meursault Tesson Cuvée de Mon Plaisir
From 0.8ha (2 acres) in this more southerly, and therefore warmer, terroir—and it shows on the fruity aroma and the glossy palate. It has golden peach and is quite sumptuous. The texture is richer and the wine is more powerful than the other village lieux-dits. A notch up in intensity and length. 2026–34. | 91–92
Meursault Vireuils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
It’s a tiny block, only 0.7ha (1.7 acres), but the south section goes into the village blend. Picked on September 3. White-flower and citrus aromas, then the palate is fine, tight, and very straight. High-wired, and it shimmies into a stony finish. I love this wine. 2026–34. | 91–92
Meursault Premier Cru Charmes Montrachet Grand Cru
From the Dessous section, almost flat, where the soil is a little heavier. The aroma is ripe apricot and slightly spicy, with a touch of toasted cumin. 20% new oak. Ripely rounded and it strokes the palate with a glossy touch, yet it is woven with fresh-enough acidity and the little oak helps to stretch the finish. All very nicely in balance. 2027–35. | 94
Meursault Premier Cru Perrières
From the Dessous section. A rich and straight, glossy line. The firm core is enveloped in ripe fruit, and on the finish, it is persistent, with a cut of cool minerality that emerges beyond the fruit if you wait… And at the end, some salinity. 2027–36. | 94
AUXEY-DURESSES
MAISON OLIVIER LEFLAIVE Franck Grux handed over to Solène Panigai as head winemaker for the 2023 vintage. Previously at the BIVB, she worked on the technical side collaborating with many wineries in Burgundy on projects linked with climate change and preserving acidity in the wine.
Meursault-Blagny Sous le Dos d’Ane
A cool and stony aroma, chic, then a neat and tight attack. Super-ripe but savory and sappy to finish, with lovely length. Straight, high-toned, and direct. It has vibration. 2026–32. | 93
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières
Domaine fruit, from a parcel in the middle of the climat, for this elegant Folatières, which has a fluid and mineral, floaty feel. Shimmies across the palate to a sparkling finish. I really like it. 2026–32. | 93–94
Super-focused and reserved. The depth, density, and concentration is countered with almost a severity of minerality. The finish is extremely long. Power and reserve. 2028–38. | 97–98
ST-AUBIN
DOMAINE MARC COLIN & FILS St-Aubin Premier Cru En Montceau
I like the fact that this is tight and citrus in a warm vintage. Grapefruit freshness and lemon zestiness. This climat turns a little to the north, so can be a bit austere in cold vintages, but works really well in 2023, when it has lovely depth of concentration but retains a lively character; lots of tension and a terse bitterness and length. Maybe the best St-Aubin I tasted this vintage. 2026–32. | 91
St-Aubin Premier Cru En Remilly
Sweetly rich first impression, then it develops across the palate. Reminiscent of sugared lemon, candied lemon skin, lightly sprinkled with salt, for it combines ripe fruit, citrus notes, and saltiness on the finish. Straight, really quite rich, but neat and contained. Quite a level up on the Chatenière for complexity and length, but tasting them blind, the En Montceau may be a touch longer. 2026–35. | 90
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets
Very oaky for now. Rich, expressive, and warm, full-bodied, but there is tension, intensity, and power. Punches through on a firm and sapid finish. Hot and cold wine. I like the finish. Persistent and with a slight shiver, but it didn’t hang on quite as well as I’d hoped, so I brought the score down a notch. 2027–35. | 94
DOMAINE RICHARD FONTAINE-GAGNARD
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Caillerets
Rich, dense, and powerful. Muscular and lithe wine, with an earthy finish, almost gravelly. 2027–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Grande Montagne
From relatively young vines, at 33 years. Tight and ripe characters combine here. A tense and compact palate, then this powers into the finish. Straight, defined, and stony. 2028–35+. | 94
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Savory, saline, and stony. Rich but sharp and
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 193
Lightly exotic, this is both delicate and ripe in aroma. Floral, for sure, elegant and perfumed pink to finish. Light though. Make no mistake. Not rich. It floats on the palate. 2027–35. | 94
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
From old vines planted in 1962. Just one 228-liter barrel. This is powerful and juicy. Remarkably fruity and super-juicy up front this year. An impressive, long, cold shiver on the finish. Very precise and focused. 2028–40. | 98
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From Languettes, purchased as juice just after press: “I ask for some lees.” This is in a two-year- old François Frères barrel. Very zesty, vibrant, and tense, and it shivers a little on the finish. Lively, long finish. A négoce wine, but I like it a lot and prefer it to the Bâtard here. 2028–35. | 96
Rich citrus combines with stony intensity on the nose. Reserved, cold, and compact on the palate, tightly layered. It shivers. Cold chalkiness layered with warm stone. The finish is super-persistent and intense. Very precise. It stood out among the 2023 grands crus here. 2028–48. | 97
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle (monopole)
Some of the vines are 60 to 70 years old. A silky aroma, with a hint of mandarin. Succulent attack, before it becomes super-streamlined. Precise edges, crispy, focused, and intense. A lively thread of minerals on the persistent finish. Such vibration for a warm vintage. 2027–40. | 95
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET JEAN CHARTRON
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos du Cailleret
Attacks with a broad and savory punch. Density and layering. Cold and warm wine. Rich fruit and stony notes. Marked sapidity on the punchy finish. Powerful. 2028–40. | 95–96
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET DOMAINE BRUNO COLIN
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot-Dessus
Broad and full-bodied wine, savory, yet there is juicy freshness to finish, which is much “sweeter” at the end than the En Remilly. 2028–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot
From Francemont, on the border of Santenay, where there is more limestone, especially as this parcel goes up-slope to touch Embazées. A straight and lightly austere Morgeot, with a clip and savory, stony freshness and tension on the finish. Salty. 2027–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly
High-toned and straight, deep and intense. Lovely drive into the finish, which is persistent and slightly austere. I love this. 2027–35+. | 94–95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière
LAYING DOWN: 2023 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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