tasting / laying down / 2023 Burgundy
persistent, and really very salty. I prefer the line and edge on the Criots, by comparison with the Bâtard, which is thicker and “sweeter.” 2029–40. | 96–97
Le Montrachet Grand Cru
From a one-year-old barrel. Straight, pure, intense, precisely edged, and so very long. Strangely, this was already all in place when I tasted it, and it was showing incredibly well. 2028–40+. | 98
DOMAINE JEAN-NOËL GAGNARD
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot-Dessus
Somewhat reserved for now. The palate is broad and layered and slightly sapid, with a fine and salty finish. 2028–35. | 95
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Caillerets
Apple-blossom floral notes combine with hot stone on the palate. Definitely ripe, but there is also cold grip and tension. Long and sapid. This is vigorous into the finish. Salt at the end. Possibly the best expression I tried this vintage. 2028–38. | 95
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Petits Clos
From a parcel just below La Romanée. Pounces onto the palate. Much colder and grippier than the Boudriotte, this has noticeable sapidity under the fruit and bite to the finish, which is chalkier and longer than the Boudriotte, neatly illustrating the differences within the large Morgeot climat. 2028–35. | 95
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Three barrels this year. A powerful, dense, and compact palate, with notes of marzipan. Rich, creamy, and full-bodied, growing in volume on the finish, which is both sumptuous and brooding, and certainly intense. An excellent finish. By the end of the first of two weeks of tasting in the Côte de Beaune, this was the best Bâtard I had tried. 2029–40. | 97–98
DOMAINE LAMY-CAILLAT
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Les Caillerets
Full-bodied, layered, but at least for now, battened down. Ripe fruit is interwoven with tannic bite. This grippy wine shows good potential. 2028–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Grande Montagne
An exotic floral expression, with a silky texture and a rose-petal finish. 2028–32. | 93
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Romanée
Streamlined, well-defined, firm, and savory, with a salty finish. Ripe, but with very good tension. 2028–32. | 94
194 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025
This was originally planted to Pinot Noir but was replanted 12 years ago to Chardonnay. It is on a north-facing slope at 820ft (250m)—the highest part of Mercurey—and has soil rich in limestone, so it is always picked at the start of the harvest. Super-juicy and succulent. Slightly exotic at the front, yet it has tension and is bright and sappy. 2025–27. | 83–84
Rully Premier Cru
This comes from two east-facing parcels in the upper part of the village. It’s ripe on the strike, yet quite tight, with savory salinity and pithiness on the finish. 2025–29. | 86–87
Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire
Still slightly reductive and oaky. Quite full on the mid-palate and flinty to finish. The soil is not so
Mercurey Blanc Premier Cru La Mission (monopole)
Upright and cucumber fresh, this spends 18 months in barrel before being assembled and held in tanks for a while before bottling. Juicy strike. Attractive density, certainly some grip and layering. An appealing juxtaposition of cold stone and warm fruit, with inviting bitterness and sapidity on the finish. Very good. 2026–32. | 89
A rich and glossy strike. This is an excellent example of a classic Morgeot—grunty, broad, dense, and earthy. Structured, with the capacity to age, yet generous in the style of the vintage. 2028–38. | 93–94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Virondot
Glossy and rich up-front. Crystalized ginger on the nose and strike. Richly textured, generous mid-palate, which is a touch tropical. It glides into a succulent finish. Let this wine slim down over time. 2028–38. | 94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles
Rich, white rose-petal aroma. Perfumed and intoxicating, it flows in a silky ribbon across the palate. Sumptuous but not heavy; it rises on the finish and is fresh and persistent. Just delicious. 2028–38. | 95
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Full-bodied and sumptuously concentrated, this has a deep, rich texture. But wait, for under the richness, the finish comes through with tingling freshness and intensity. 2030–40+. | 95–96
SANTENAY
DOMAINE PHILIPPE LE HARDI This estate, owned by French bank Crédit Agricole, has increased markedly in quality since Jean-Philippe Archambaud took over the helm in 2019. (The name changed from Château de Santenay to Philippe le Hardi in 2021.) A large domaine of 98ha (242 acres), which expanded in 2021 with the purchase of a small estate of 5.5ha (13.5 acres) certified organic and biodynamic since 2010.
White Mercurey La Brigadiers
DOMAINE MARC MOREY
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot
stony, but the palate has a nice, smooth-stone character. Supple and smooth, with a cool note to finish. 2025–35. | 87–88
Red
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Au Closeau
There are only two producers of wine from this 0.5ha (1.2-acre) climat, probably planted in the 1930s. All of the work here is by hand. It is even finer and purer than the Petite Chapelle, with silky tannins, nice intensity, and a sweet and lively finish. 2026–33. | 92
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Les Champs Lambert
An upright and fresh aroma of garden herbs. It’s fresh, piquant, and sprightly. Delicately done. Fine tannins. Very fruity, with a herbal waft to finish. So pretty. 2025–28. | 84
Mercurey Premier Cru Les Croichots
From a 1ha (2.47-acre) south-facing parcel. Appealingly rounded on the nose, then silky- smooth on the palate. A lick of oak over some nicely ripe fruit, which is both fresh and concentrated, and carries to a sweet finish. 2025–30. | 87
Mercurey Premier Cru Les Puillets
Upright, red-cherry aroma. Bright and splashing up front, with morello fruit and freshness, and medium body. The cherry fruit on the finish tastes a little baked and much richer, but I like the evolution. There is cool cut under the palate and crunch to the tannin. Ripe but more refined than the Croichots. Wraps into a rather appealing package. 2025–30. | 87
Santenay Premier Cru Comme
Sweet aroma. Juicy, ripe, and succulent strike. There is good freshness and it finishes on a light and lively line. 2025–30. | 86
Santenay Premier Cru Gravières
Spot-on. There is plenty of punch and vivacity. Good density and minerality and follow through. 2026–30. | 87–88
CÔTE CHALONNAISE
MERCUREY CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY
White
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