Le Bourg, which has seen new oak, is muscular and energetic, its dark fruit velvety and textured, its spicy peroration clearly touched by the wood. Cyril cites the structure of the soil—with its firm clay limestone base—as the explanation for this contrast, revealing that the use of the more locally sourced wood is intended, almost paradoxically, to give a more Burgundian feel to the wine. Structured and yet elegant, too; the best of all possible worlds. The vines have yielded more than 45hl/ha for this wine, which is reasonably high for Clos Rougeard. Le Bourg is the site of the original clos (the wall has been subsumed into the urban matrix), and it was here that the brothers lived and here that they entertained heroically, the wines from 1934 and 1923 especially appreciated. Here, in other words—and despite the flat, prosaic perspective—the legend was born. It is little wonder that there was a wish to commemorate the fact by instigating this superb stand-alone cuvée in 1988. On occasion, one has to dig a little to unearth the legend, in this case through sand, limestone, and clay, and through decades of husbandry that have eschewed the intervention of herbicides, pesticides, and the like, giving a full and glorious expression to the enigmatic Cabernet Franc grape.
Crafting the finest wines possible Into the warmth of the tasting room now, and a preview of the quartet of 2019s, which are about to be released. As in many parts of France, 2019 was born nobly and has, if anything, been gaining in reputation in the interim. It is a vintage not untouched by warmth, but with a measured, temperate classicism in evidence, which is of special relevance to tannin management. For Pierre, both the individual vintages and the individual sites need to be assessed separately; he describes the process in terms of haute couture, with attention to detail key and allied to the need to know when to do nothing. This, the “paradox of the pioneer,” is especially relevant when one is vinifying by parcel. The needlework of detail often hangs by a narrow thread, but behind it all will be fundamental decisions on such things as the timing of the harvest (nature has been capricious of late) and the temperature of the fermentation vat. In terms of extraction, Cyril favors more time (a month at least) and less intervention. He describes a gentle mouillage du chapeau (wetting of the cap) rather than anything more energetic, in order, he says, to “homogenize the yeast”—the latter, needless to say, natural. Elsewhere, gravity assistance and a regimen of minimal sulfur additions both serve to underline the non-interventionist approach. In a region where the monastic heritage has been less marked in the vines (surprisingly, one may surmise), it was down to visionaries like the Foucault dynasty to write the vinous lore. There is the Abbaye de Fontevraud nearby, Cyril says, and evidence that the monks did indeed plant Cabernet Franc, but perhaps without the pedagogic zeal of their Burgundian brothers. Or maybe here a story remains untold… The Abbé Breton, this time from the Abbaye de Bourgueil, did, after all, lend his name to one of the many synonyms for Cabernet Franc. Once again, the misty Loire is shrouded in enigma. Back to the 2019s, which are now entering the marketplace.
An excellent vintage, pace Cyril, yields concentrated by early frost, thereafter never too warm; overall very dry, but with just
Opposite: Cyril Chirouze sampling one of the three red wines made at Clos Rougeard, all of which spend two years in oak of different ages and origins.
TASTING 2019 Clos Rougeard Blanc Brézé
Deep gold, with a beguiling nose of exotica (guava, quince, pineapple), spice, vanillin, beeswax, and a hint of petrichor. The shard of acidity runs through the palate with energizing vigor and focus; a stone-fruit core does not lack for warmth. The intimation of generous austerity, familiar from the best examples of this variety, is writ large here. | 96
2019 Clos Rougeard Le Bourg
Deep ruby red; inscrutable onyx at the core. The nose is tight, powerful, and unyielding, with hints of truffle, graphite, and plum beyond the crushed berries and soft herbs. The palate is broad and mouth-filling, marked by both the mid- palate intensity and, almost by way of contradiction, broader vistas of fruity potential that unfurl with a little air. Cerebral and challenging at the moment, but with great potential. | 93–96
2019 Clos Rougeard Les Poyeux
More floral and forthcoming than its sibling; hints of damask rose and peony to the fore, then behind that, cinnamon spice, black and white pepper, and gently crushed raspberry and sloe. Fine structural draftsmanship is respectful of this intricate vintage, and the interplay of the tannins and acidity assumes a delicate weave that belies the latent power. An intriguing array of qualities, all of which prompt one to return to the glass for further inspection. | 94–95
2019 Clos Rougeard Le Clos
Deep midnight saturation at the core, yet with a charming, ruby-purple luminosity at its rim. An equally alluring spectrum marks out the nose and palate alike, with stony, almost metallic elements finding counterpoint in an impressive weight of dark fruit and the matrix of finely woven tannins. Savory notes, adorned by pepper and mountain herbs, serve to complete the picture. Closer to the Bourg than Les Poyeux, this blend has nonetheless assumed its own distinctive personality and sits elegantly alongside its siblings. | 93–94
enough rain at just about the right moments. These youthful samples are starting to open up and are all marked by concentration and complexity.
This is a very fine quartet, and the 2015 Les Poyeux with
lunch only heightened the enigma, such was its approachable power. The child of another “modern classic” vintage, the wine was intense in color, aroma, and taste, wonderfully complex, and well suited to the accompaniment—veal, in my case. The Bouygues family has no intention to expand either
the range or the modest holdings; the laissez-faire approach that underwrites the winemaking so successfully looks set to preserve the overall framework. This is refreshing, especially when one considers the demand for these wines. The philosophy of the Foucault brothers and their long line of forebears is safety instilled in the new owners, who have not the slightest inclination to transform Clos Rougeard into another Château Montrose. Both, however, enjoy the attentions of diligent and sensitive winemaking, as well as a fascination with the Cabernet Franc grape variety. Pierre Graffeuille is elegant and spirited in describing Clos Rougeard and its challenges, praising in particular the domaine’s “exceptional plant material and deep expertise in massal selection.” He adds, “We do everything we can to listen to our terroirs and to craft the finest wines possible. And all with exacting standards and great humility.” Prospects for Clos Rougeard are promising indeed; the lion is revitalized and ready for the spring…
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 147
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