Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Generous, full, and rounded, with a supple ripple and juiciness mid-palate. Follows through to a sturdier, grippy and punchy finish, which is quite earthy. It is a blend of more classic Vougeot pugilism with a lighter touch, which makes sense, as it comes from two larger parcels at the bottom and one in the middle of the Clos 2028–38. | 94
Echézeaux En Orveaux Grand Cru
From white-marl soil and vines planted in 1958. Ripe, redcurrant fruit aroma to a silky, rippling palate. Pure and precise and straight. Neat edges, crisp, delicate tannin, and a cool stream to finish, with a slightly herbal, tarragon note at the end. No whole-bunch—just the cool of the combe going into this perfume. Delightful. 2027–38. | 96
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Vaucrains
A floral, roseate nose, with light strawberry on the front-palate. Pure, delicate, and wafting. Taffeta- texture tannins at first, but then more austerity; you feel the sharper, fine, chalky minerality and salinity on the finish, which is persistent. A thought- provoking wine. 2027–40. | 97
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Rich and exuberant fruit on the front-palate, then compact and dense through the mid-palate. This is battening down now, but the finish is long and has plentiful fruit. Concentration and plenty of staying power. 2028–40. | 96
Musigny Grand Cru
50% whole-bunch. One new, 150-liter barrel. Super-intense yet delicate and pure. Silken texture. Aniseed notes. Fine-cut and well defined. Streamlined, focused finish. A big step up in intensity and length, with a hint of mint on the end. One of the best wines I tasted. 2028–40. | 98–99
Corton Clos des Corton Faiveley Grand Cru
This is a supple, rounded, and juicy Corton, with generous dark fruit and a full body. It is quite rich, seductively spicy, and a little exotic on the finish. 2027–35. | 94–95
DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
Juicy and fresh. Attractively splashing fruit, with a bright snap of tannin that brings energy to the palate and to the finish. I like the energy and the light touch. 2027–32. | 91–92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chênes-Cartaux
Ripe aromatics—dark forest fruit and exotic notes—yet here again Gregory Gouges shows his light touch, with a fine, crisp note of sappy tannin. Aromatic on the finish, with notes of the spice market. Very ripe but not at all heavy. 2026–32. | 93
DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR Thibault Liger-Belair did not do a green-harvest in 2023, preferring to do a selection in the vineyard and a double sorting on the table in the winery. “I have an average of 41hl/ha in 2023, and had 38hl/ha in 2022,” he said. He used plenty of whole bunches in 2023, removing the stem from the bunch for the grands crus, but despite the whole bunches, he didn’t tweak the acidity.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
20% whole-bunch overall. Dark fruit, with suede- soft tannin. There is smooth muscle and power. Plenty of freshness on the end of the palate and good persistence. 2028–35. | 94–95
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
This has 20% whole-bunch and 80% new oak. “I have changed the vinification over the past few years,” Thibault explained. “Since 2019, I have been doing 15 punch-downs. I found that the tannins are more integrated with more punch-down. Now it is more elegant and less rustic.” When Thibault told me he did so much pigeage, I was expecting a monster… But actually, it is not a big, burly Vougeot. Floral aroma, sweet and silky onto the palate. I like the supple texture and am surprised that it has so much charm. There is lovely nugget of rich fruit on the mid-palate, then it stretches out into the finish. 2029–40. | 95
Richebourg Grand Cru
From vines planted in 1934 and 1936. 30% whole- bunch and 80% new oak. Notably perfumed. Rose petal envelops the palate, which is elegant and finely textured. Very intense, carrying to an excellent, floral finish. Lingering, pure, and scented. 2028–40. | 97
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses
Largely old vines, mid-slope, looking east. Blackcurrant aroma, with a smooth and silky glide into the palate. There is nicely contained sweetness, and it has good bitterness and crunch on the finish. Much tighter than the fruitier Les Vergelesses, and longer as well. 2026–32. | 91
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE
DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES White
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses
From 1ha (2.47 acres) of vines planted by Claude Jousset’s mother, right in the middle of the vineyard. “She recognized the stone in this part as being like that in Charlemagne.” Aged in two Stockinger barrels. “I do not like to pick the fruit too early, and I want good fruit ripeness.” This does have tropical fruit, round and rich, underscored by sapidity, and there’s some power at the end. 2027–33. | 92
Corton Blanc Grand Cru
From two parcels, one in Bressandes, the other in Chaumes. Density and richness. Full-bodied. This has muscle and power; a ripe and savory profile and it pushes through on the finish. There is more shoulder on the white Bressandes than on the red. 2027–40. | 95
Red Corton Bressandes Grand Cru
From four parcels, two in Ladoix and two in Aloxe. A forest-fruit aroma. Cool and straight, with a firm
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 187
Aromatic richness, a touch of baked cherry pie, and super-fragrant on the palate, too. Finely textured, with a thread of freshness and a light bitterness to the finish; black-chocolate freshness, which carries on the finish. An elegant, rather floaty Nuits, with cocoa to finish. 2028–35. | 94
This is 95% En Charlemagne, with just a touch of Le Charlemagne. Notable focus and tension. It is channeled and taut; the core is strong, and it drives into the finish, which is savory and saline. 2027–35. | 96
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
A satin-textured sweep into the palate. This is a level up in concentration, intensity, and sophistication. This glides on a richly shimmering, supple stroke to the finish, which is well sustained and rather sophisticated. Fine, sleek, textural wine. This could almost be grand cru. 2028–38. | 95–96
From two parcels in the upper section of the climat, where most of the vines were planted in the 1960s. A 20hl foudre and 250-liter barrels, 20% new. 13.5% ABV. I like the citrus slice on the nose, which is also a touch floral. A much straighter palate than the En Caradeux; austere rather than muscular, with good grip and tension. Quite a powerful, sapid finish. Excellent Sous Frétille. 2026–32. | 92
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers
25% new oak. Exotic, spicy red fruit on the nose, then on the palate, juicy, open, and opulent. A generous and looser crochet texture. A slightly sumptuous, airy, and rounded wine, but with a light touch, and I like the fact that this wine focuses on the aromas, which are quite jammy but appealing. 2026–32. | 93
CÔTE DE BEAUNE
PERNAND-VERGELESSES DOMAINE RAPET & FILS White
Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Sous Frétille
LAYING DOWN: 2023 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS / CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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