Sarah Marsh MW
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
This cuvée is from Charmes proper—from two parcels, 50 and 90 years old—and has a maximum of 70–80% whole-bunch (never 100%). An aroma of warm strawberry fields, and the palate in enveloped in perfume. The whole-bunch shouldn’t work here this year… but it does, giving a light sappiness that tightens and stretches to the finish, and adding complexity to the scented character of this wine. It’s more open and warming compared with the cuvée from the cooler Mazoyères parcel. 2028–40. | 96–97
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
From three parcels of venerable vines (60, 80, and 95 years old). Deep and spicy aroma, red peppercorn and bay leaf, and maybe a touch of marjoram—I am enjoying the whole-bunch aromatics at Dugat-Py. Splashing palate. This is really exuberant. Such an energetic wine. Pouncing all over the place and springing into the finish, which is carried with a touch of minty freshness. Wow—it’s rare to see such an exuberant Mazis. 2028–40. | 97
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
From a single 70-year-old parcel. 100% whole- bunch. Scented aroma, with notes of fresh mint and white pepper. On the palate, satin-smooth and gliding at the front, then it moves to cooler grip and tension. Much straighter on the palate than the rounded Charmes. Fresh, with attractive leafy notes from the whole-bunch, which are more pronounced than in the Charmes. The limestone in this parcel and the whole-bunch come together to give this grip, tension, and vibrancy. 2028–40. | 96–97
DOMAINE HENRI MAGNIEN Charles Magnien, who took over the family domaine in 2009, commented, “To have this purity and terroir identity, with such a large crop, is very rare.”
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 4 Carac Terres
Made from 120kg (265lb) of the finest grapes from the four premiers crus. 100% whole-bunch. “Never any punching-down or pumping-over for this—we don’t touch it.” Dense and compact. Licorice richness. Seductive ripeness of fruit. It has punchy concentration, as well as a minty note from the whole-bunch. A lot of oak, which is quite smoky now. 2028–35. | 93–94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
Rose-petal aromas and on the palate super-sweet fruit with gorgeous intensity. Unfurls like a bolt of rich silk to a fine and chalky finish. Just a delight. 2027–35. | 95–96
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux
No new oak here. Splashing and energetic red fruit. Sweet on the mid-palate. Plenty of tension and a chalky frisson. A crunchy texture. Sapid and savory
on the finish. Really attractive Champeaux. Good terroir definition. Joyful wine. 2027–35. | 93–94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Estournelles St-Jacques
Sweet, intense, dark-forest fruits. Concentrated and velvety smooth. Supple, with a smooth sweep and a bitter-chocolate edge. There is a leafy, green sappy note which carries this wine. And a contrast in the wine between the rich, dark fruit and the freshness. It is streamlined. 2026–35. | 94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St-Jacques
Brisk and breezy. Salty intensity and a frosty feel. Sour cherry. Chalky finish. Swift and austere. “A reserve of freshness. Always the most acidic of my wines.” 2027–35. | 94
Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Intense, sweet fruit on the nose. Channeled and tight, focused and streamlined. The ripe raspberry fruit contrasts with the cold grip. I like the tension. Fine, elegant, and austere. Salty and strong. Very stylish. 2027–35. | 96–97
MOREY-ST-DENIS DOMAINE ARLAUD In 2023, there were two green-harvests here, which brought yields down to 48hl/ha for village wines and 37hl/ha for grands crus. Organic certified and biodynamic since 2014.
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Chezeaux
The soil here is very thin, so the vines struggle and the grapes can be very small and dehydrated. Not surprisingly, this has really good concentration. Compact and ripe, almost jammy, fruity, very sweet, but also really salty, with a lightly bitter, chalky note to finish. Among my favorites here. 2027–35. | 93
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
From rows running from the bottom to the white soil at the top on the Chambolle side. It’s hard to work these long rows on this slope when you are here all day,” says Marius. Up-front succulence. Intensity and concentration. Fruit layered with freshness. A velvet stroke of tannin. You see the minerality on the persistent finish. 2027–36. | 94–95
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
A notably exotic aroma, spicy, with baked cherry- pie ripeness. Super-expressive on the palate, too, where it is extravagant, with heady aromatics. Luscious and extrovert. Such volume. I don’t see the stony minerality at the moment. Interesting to see what happens when this calms down. 2028–35. | 94–95
Clos St-Denis Grand Cru
More discreet, fine-boned, and delicate than the Cos de la Roche, showing a fine mineral spine and sapid finish. I prefer this to the Clos de la Roche, for now at least. 2027–35. | 95
DOMAINE CASTAGNIER I really enjoyed Jérôme Castagnier’s wines. The green-harvesting paid dividends, for there is good concentration and fine tannin, but also plenty of energy and freshness.
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
From 0.4ha (1 acre) in the Charmes section. Rich, sweet fruit—cherries—and a gorgeous aroma of cherry blossom, too. There is great volume on the palate, but it’s gossamer light and finely textured. Lucid cherry fruit is threaded with slivery freshness, into a persistent, streamlined, tangy finish. A delightful Charmes. 2027–35+. | 96–97
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
From a single block, with very shallow topsoil over the limestone. Almost a flinty, smoky aroma—but from the limestone rather than any light reduction, I think. The palate is energetic and super-intense. It’s straight and powerful, with well-toned muscle. Chalky grip and tension, and a lovely, long, graphite finish. 2028–40. | 97–98
Clos St-Denis Grand Cru
“In Clos St-Denis, my vines are in the center of the historic parcels—some lieux-dits [Maison Brûlées and parts of Calouère and Chaffots] were later added.” It is much more reserved than the Clos de la Roche. Pure and channeled. Powerful yet delicate and finely textured. Lithe muscle. Perfumed finish. 2028–40. | 97
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From Grand Maupertui. Intense, compact, and layered, but very elegant, with a well-defined, channeled palate. A ribbon of dark fruit, satin tannins, black-chocolate richness, and, on the sleek and vibrant finish, a touch of cocoa powder. I really like this urbane Clos de Vougeot. 2028–40. | 97
DOMAINE DUJAC The style of these elegant and vibrant wines carries the hallmark of whole-bunch, which brings freshness and appealing herbal notes to the ripe fruit. Lovely Morey red and whites this year.
White
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Mont Luisants
Light citrus and peachy aroma. Glossy, with candied citrus fruit up front. Ripeness envelops the tight and firm core. Sweet lime to finish. 2026–36. | 93
Red Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru
Attractive tension and vibrancy. Straight, energetic red fruit. Super-sweet, but nicely herbaceous thanks to the whole-bunch, with a little stemmy grip to the finish. Good push through. 2027–38. | 92–93
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Rich and yet austere. The more severe expression,
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 181
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