Sarah Marsh MW
MEURSAULT CHÂTEAU DE MEURSAULT Managing director Stéphane Follin-Arbelet said, “2023 was much more concentrated than we expected. We used lots of bâtonnage to enrich the whites. The reds were a very good surprise, with their very ripe tannin, concentration, and balance—the structure to age a long time.”
White Meursault Premier Cru Charmes-Dessus
A touch of greengage on the nose and litchi on the palate, which is rounded, creamy, and rich, with plenty of concentration. But there is a cut of freshness through the fruit, and this focuses to show mineral tension on the finish, where it fizzles brightly. 2027–35. | 94–95
Meursault Premier Cru Perrières
The harvest began here on September 6, just 100m (330ft) from the Charmes parcel. Tight, straight, whiplash energy combines with acidity in this more savory wine. Intense, severe and cold in feel. Edge and tension. I like this Perrières. 2028–35. | 95
Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru
Alluring ripe fruit on the attack, to a savory and rich, well-defined mid-palate. Here there is density and cool grip. A powerful and sapid finish. 2028–35. | 96–97
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves Les Trois Journaux
A ripe cherry fruit and floral perfume on this deep and super-silky-soft Grèves. It is lightly spicy on the finish, which lingers with a haunting fragrance. 2027–36. | 93–94
Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epenots
Dark and spicy fruit, with a rather exotic aromatic note on both nose and palate. Plentiful but supple tannins; smooth dark chocolate with a bitter bite, which offsets the ripeness. Suave. 2028–35+. | 94
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes
Slices into the palate, zesty and cold. Red-cherry fruit with brightness and intensity. Finely grained tannins. A pretty strict, chalky character. I like the cut, drive, and stony feel to this wine. Sappy, energetic, and persistent. 2028–35+. | 95
Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru
Possibly the most refined red Corton I tried this vintage. This sweeps across the palate with zesty freshness. It is cool and stretches into a persistent, chalky finish. 2028–35+.| 95
DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT Charles Ballot is very open about the challenges of this vintage. But he has overcome them to produce a lovely flight of wines, with top-notch whites and charming Pommards.
Much colder and very restrained on both the nose and the palate; tension and layering. Powerful and chalky to finish. 2027–35+. | 95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champ Canet
A new cuvée from vines planted in 1955 and inherited through Jean-Baptiste’s mother’s family. Just three barrels of wine. It is slightly spicy and exotic on the attack and has an aromatic close, but the palate is pure, refined, and stretches out on the finish. Exotic and airy. 2027–33. | 93
CHÂTEAU GÉNOT-BOULANGER Winemaker Guillaume Lavollée, who married into the owning family, said, “We never do a green-harvest. We prune and debud strictly. So, I always start the campaign with lower potential
Beaune Premier Cru Montrevenots
“Under the radar but full of limestone,” says Guillaume. “Historically, maybe difficult to get ripe, but not now.” Harvested on September 9, 12.5% ABV. An aroma of summer strawberry fields, then on the palate, it is gentle and airy. Lightly textured. It has a fine salinity and a delicate, salty finish. Rather refined. I would much rather have a delicate Beaune like this than something too ripe and rich. 2026–32. | 90–91
Corton Les Combes Grand Cru
Spicy, rounded, and full, but there is acidity to balance. Silky-smooth tannins and freshness on the finish, which stretches with good length and red fruit. A lighter, fresh version Corton. Lots of charm. 2026–34. | 94
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 191
Streamlined and strict, but lush on the mid-palate where there is lithe musicality. Soft salt to finish. 2027–35. | 94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets
DOMAINE MICHEL BOUZEREAU Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières
Perfumed and refined. Exotic floral notes combine with delicacy and tension. Light-footed and swift. It shimmers on the finish. 2027–35+. | 94
Meursault Premier Cru Les Perrières
From the steep, top part of the hill, with whiter soil—a warm area, but the limestone shows. Fragrant and lightly rounded, but a little stricter than the other Beaunes. Well-defined edge to the palate, and a lightly graphite note to the finish. Undoubtedly a “light” Grèves, but among the more attractive I tasted in 2023. 2026–34. | 93
Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes
From the top corner at the southern end of this climat, where there is 16in (40cm) of clay, as well as limestone. A rich, slinky, and sumptuous palate; rounded, ripe, and seductive, just short of tropical; there is a hint of litchi, but it’s neatly underscored with smooth, fresh minerals on the finish. Among the best I tried. 2027–35. | 96–97
Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières
Ripe, full, and airy, with exotic florals. Quite open and rich, but closes in to finish fine, tight, and lightly piercing. 2027–35+. | 95
Meursault Premier Cru Les Perrières
Ripe, yellow fruit on the nose, rather than the floral note of the Genevrières. It is rich and concentrated but skates on a polished blade on the finish, where it is direct and persistent. Among the three best Perrières of the vintage. 2028–35+. | 96
Red Pommard Premier Cru Pézerolles
At 55 years old, the vines are not ancient but yields are still low—only around 30hl/ha, even in 2023. A ripe, lightly exotic, purple aroma. Suave and supple glide on the palate, with good concentration of dark fruit. The texture is satin-smooth and the finish glossy. Better than many Epenots I tried this vintage. 2026–35+. | 94–95
yields.” Although there was no green-harvest for reds, he did do a lot of sorting. He ended up with around 60hl/ha for the whites and 50hl/ha for reds. Génot-Boulanger stopped using whole- bunch in 2017. “We are more comfortable with the crisp fruit we get if we destem the grapes.” Two reds had a saignée. No acidification, no chaptalization. Alcohol levels about 13%—a few are 13.5%. Some may find the Génot-Boulanger reds a little too light, but I find them delicate and pure, with fine-textured tannins.
White Meursault Premier Cru Les Bouchères
Picked on the first day of the white harvest. Fine and floral. Full but light and airy. There is minerality on the finish. Guillaume has captured the perfume and delicacy of Bouchères. This is precise and pure, which is difficult to achieve in hot vintages. 2026–33. | 94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne
From the south part of the climat, next to En Remilly. Very sweet and concentrated, tight and salty. There is vibrancy and energy. I like the sweet/salt finish. Straight and slightly sappy. Good terroir expression. 2026–35. | 93
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From vines in Le Charlemagne, at the top of the lieu-dit near the wood. Rich on the strike; lots of punchy, ripe fruit mid-palate, but lively and zesty under the richness, and the finish is persistent and austere. Much colder on the finish. It shows well. 2027–36. | 96
Red Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
LAYING DOWN: 2023 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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